Charles Jeffrey Loverboy RTW Fall 2023

Charles Jeffrey decamped from London and brought his signature artistry and subversive touch to Milan, offering a jolt of extravagance in a season usually grounded in reality.

During a preview, the designer explained the move, listing the similarities between the city and " his" Glasgow, from the industrial nature to the "talkative, friendly and passionate" people (having found commercial support in the Italian group Tomorrow Ltd. might also have made the choice easier) and expressed his intention to stay.

"London Fashion Week and London are two separate things. I have a lot more opportunities here to grow my business, grow, be with the big brands and learn, and slowly build myself up,” he noted.

The creator has also traversed the local queer underground scene and hopes his brand's take on the kind and anarchic spirit could support it more and "expand what already exists", especially "now that there is a change of perspective with the new Prime Minister".

Back in fashion, different subcultures coexisted in the whimsical collection he also presented. Inspired by John Byrne's 1987 play "The Slab Boys Trilogy" and cleverly split into three acts, the show opened with working-class heroes in an oversized boxy fit, jacket with an apron on it, kilt layered over pants.

The Posers followed with their show-stopping Fair Isle knits and maximalist prints, before the The snakes strutted down the catwalk in flowing looks splattered with all-over newsprint - only they felt a bit like old news, as they inevitably evoked John Galliano's version.