Jackson Boxer’s vegetarian recipe for roast beetroot with pickled raisins and blue cheese

Surprise yourself with the flavours in this roast beetroot spiked with pickled raisins and salty blue cheese

It’s not uncommon for people to form negative relationships with certain vegetables as a consequence of only ever having had them boiled to disintegration, a blunt approach that’s unlikely to bring out the best in any of us. Beetroot, especially, are vastly improved by being roasted instead, because that way they cook gently in their own juices. Not only does this much improve their texture, but it concentrates their innate, earthy richness, rather than leaching out of them. Beetroot’s high level of natural sweetness makes it a perfect foil for sharp dressings and even sharper cheeses.

If you use latex gloves, you should easily be able to peel off the beetroot skins simply by rubbing their surface with your hands.

Prep 10 min Pickle Overnight Cook 2 hr Serves 4

For the pickled raisins 500g apple cider vinegar 8g black peppercorns (about 1 tbsp) 4g allspice berries (about 2 tsp) 2 bay leaves 1 medium shallot, peeled and sliced 1 fresh jalapeño chilli, left whole 1 large fresh red chilli, split in half lengthways, stalk, pith and seeds discarded 2 garlic cloves 12 sprigs fresh oregano 300g golden raisins

For the roast beetroot 1.2kg beetroot, ideally an equal mix of at least three varieties (cylindra, badger flame and candy, for preference); failing that, bog-standard purple beetroot will work just fine, too 60ml olive oil 20g flaky sea salt 100g vegetarian soft blue cheese, frozen, to finish – a farmhouse blue such as brunswick blue would be ideal

For the toasted pumpkin seeds 5g rosemary needles (about 3 tsp) 25g extra-virgin olive oil 100g pumpkin seeds 2g flaky sea salt (about ½ tsp)

For the dressing 50g sherry vinegar 100g raisin pickling liquor (see above and method) 100g extra-virgin olive oil 50g minced shallots 2g ground black pepper (about ½ tsp) 2g flaky sea salt (about ½ tsp)

The day before, pickle the raisins. Put all the pickle ingredients bar the raisins in a heavy saucepan, bring to a gentle simmer, then take off the heat and leave to cool for 30 minutes. Strain the liquor into a jug and discard the spent solids. Submerge the raisins in the brine, then cover and put in the fridge to pickle overnight.

Next day, roast the beetroot. Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash all the beetroots thoroughly, then use a small, sharp knife to trim off their tops and tails. Rub the cleaned beetroot all over with the oil and salt, then wrap each variety separately in a tinfoil parcel, making sure they’re sealed so no steam can escape.

Put the beetroot parcels on a suitable oven tray, then roast for 45 minutes, until the tip of a sharp knife can be inserted into the core with no resistance. Remove and leave to cool for about 30 minutes. When the beetroot are cool enough to handle, peel off and discard all the skins, cut each one from top to bottom into quarters, then cut each quarter in half lengthways.

Meanwhile, toast the pumpkin seeds. Finely chop the rosemary and gently warm the oil in a small pan. Take off the heat, add the rosemary and leave to infuse for 20 minutes. Put the pumpkin seeds on an oven tray in an even layer, and toast in a 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 oven for 12-15 minutes, until lightly toasted and aromatic. Pour the rosemary oil over the seeds, season with the salt, toss to coat then tip the seeds on to a plate lined with kitchen towel to drain.

Finally, make the dressing. Mix the sherry vinegar and raisin pickling liquid, then whisk in the olive oil until emulsified. Stir in the shallots, pepper and salt.

To assemble, arrange the still warm beetroot on a platter – I like to keep the different varieties separate – fold through the strained raisins and sprinkle with the pumpkin seeds. Finely grate the frozen blue cheese all over the top, and serve at once.

Jackson Boxer is chef/owner of Brunswick House, Vesper and Dove, all in London, and culinary director of Cowley Manor near Cheltenham and the Henrietta in London