Indigenous culinary school serving up talent to top restaurants

Allan Miller remembers the tantalising smell of his grandmother cooking in the kitchen.

"Growing up, it was a lot of the women in the kitchen, but I was always around," he said.

"I always asked: 'Can I have a go?' And they never let me play around with the knives … they'd hold me, stir the food and I just loved it."

Mr Miller did not realise it at the time, but those special moments planted the seed for becoming a successful chef, taking out the Hunter Culinary Association first-year apprentice competition.

The proud Dhungutti and Wonnarua man is one of 11 First Nations graduates of the 2026 National Indigenous Culinary Institute's (NICI) commercial cookery apprenticeship, which carves out a pathway for talented cooks to become qualified chefs.

"It's kind of just like a cherry on top for me," he said.

"I've done all the work now … so it is a really good feeling just to have my hard work recognised by the people around me and by the organisation that helped me actually secure my job."

One of the highlights of his career so far has been creating a special menu using Indigenous ingredients.

"It's just putting a piece of me on the plate," he said.

"It's a good feeling, especially if [customers] enjoy it."

A cohort of restaurant critics and renowned chefs, including Neil Perry, Matt Moran, Luke Mangan, Guillaume Brahimi, Jill Dupliex and Terry Durack, established the program in 2012.

The institute's CEO Nathan Lovett said the group was on a mission to increase the number of Indigenous chefs in high-end restaurants.

"They developed a pathway program that could help develop skills, knowledge and understanding … so that people from our communities had an opportunity to get into employment working in the very best restaurants in the country," Mr Lovett said.

Since its inception, more than 100 Indigenous chefs have completed their apprenticeship — this year marks the biggest group of graduates yet.

"It is a huge testament to the apprentices who have stuck with it because for the 11 who got through, there's probably 20 or 30 who haven't," Mr Lovett said.

"Those qualified chefs go on to be more than just a chef in their restaurant.

"They're becoming leaders, becoming mentors for more apprentices coming behind them, which is a really significant part of our program now."

The class of 2026 and their guests were treated to a special long lunch designed by NICI alumni chef Kilijah Grentell with support from Aria's executive chef, Tom Gorringe.

Ms Grentell, who is now a demi-chef at Chiswick, designed the menu using native ingredients.

She says it brings her great pride seeing prestigious kitchens showcasing native ingredients on their menus.

"We have some great food and ingredients that I used when I was sometimes in the kitchen with mum," she said.

"Then seeing some of the stuff that I ate as a kid coming to a well-known restaurant … it's like full circle.

"We're trying to show that we do have food that is available, like native food, and we're trying to let that shine."

Luke Bourke is also passionate about bringing Indigenous culture into world-class kitchens.

It is something he learned through NICI and has experimented with ingredients over the past decade, working in some of Australia's most illustrious kitchens.

Currently the head chef at Felon's Seafood on Manly Wharf, this week Mr Bourke became the second Indigenous chef to receive a Sydney Morning Herald Good Food hat.

"It was super exciting for me as a head chef of my first restaurant and for the Indigenous community," he said.

"To lead the way is something I'm passionate about and to show the next generation they can do it."

One of the most popular items on the menu is his wood-fired calamari with finger lime salsa.

"A lot of people come in and try it for the first time, but then they're bringing their friends and having it again."

The proud Palawa man started his journey through the National Indigenous Culinary Institute and went from the suburbs of western Sydney to the fine dining scenes of Rockpool Bar & Grill, owned by iconic Australian chef Neil Perry AM.

"Walking into a big marble bank, seeing a huge wood fire grill, all the chefs working so hard, it was definitely daunting to walk into, but then also so inspiring," he said.

Mr Bourke's inspiration and love for cooking also stem from his family.

"Nana used to work at a poultry farm, and on Dad's side — Grandma — she used to be into baking and competitions … so that sparked it from an early age," he said.

"Having an older sister, she's two years older than us, she jumped in the kitchen first, and me and my twin brother followed."

He credits part of his success to NICI and the support they provided him during challenging times.

"When you wake up and go to work, you don't see the sun, and then after work, it's quite a mental challenge as well not being able to go out and have a lifestyle," Mr Bourke explained.

"So having people there and also the 24-hour counselling that NICI provides, just to have someone to chat to … is definitely a great thing to have."

Allen Miller, who is filling in as sous-chef at Little Fish restaurant in Newcastle, wants to see more Indigenous chefs in the kitchen to support the next generation coming through.

"I feel like it's important to have that connection, especially in the kitchen [so] you know someone you can go to if times are getting tough," he said.

"My former sous-chef Adrian Rendall … I definitely look up to him. I had very hard times, and he was there to support me, and that's who I aspire to be like."