The Undeniably Asian American Canned Meat: Four Recipes With Spam

There are few food products in the world that are as divisive as spam, the little can of processed pork that inspires love or revulsion.

I'm part of the Asian Diaspora and to me this very American product tastes like home. The history of spam in Asian communities is a shared history of ingenuity and resilience. It is often difficult to explain to people recoiling in disgust that spam is not only delicious, but is also viewed very differently in our parents' country of origin.

I share my love for the small rectangular slice of canned pork with millions of Asians and Pacific Islanders around the world. The use of spam is rooted in the regional cuisines of the Philippines, South Korea, Japan, and Hong Kong, which may seem incompatible with local styles, ingredients, and cooking techniques. So how did this American canned meat find its way into so many cuisines?

Spam and noodles, Spam and rice, Spam and eggs. Spam has a long history as a commodity, a food ration, a luxury item, and a remnant of American colonialism. It was established in 1937 by Hormel Foods with the goal of turning surplus pork shoulder into profit and filling a void in the market for small portions of high quality deli meats with long shelf life.

< p class="dcr-3jlghf">At the time, other companies used scraps and scraps like pork nose to make their deli meats, so Spam's high quality and affordability made it a success with families struggling with the Great Depression. Its long shelf life and high protein content also made it an ideal military ration. This is how spam began its journey around the world - like a wartime necessity. By the end of World War II, the US government had purchased about 68,000 tons of it to feed its army and aid its allies.