Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula is a lush enclave on the southeastern tip of the country, filled with Mayan ruins, cenotes, and fascinating towns to explore. My recent trip to the Mayan region visited two cities that make a compelling combination.
Tulum Tulum oozes intrigue: bohemian chic meets Mayan history in a region of breathtaking beauty. Tulum consists of two main areas: a bustling city and a dreamy seaside, where chic hotels line the sandy beaches.
We chose Nomadic temple to Tulum for our week-long eco-luxe getaway. Hidden within the jungle foliage, various accommodation options welcome guests, all unified by a design of dark wood, iron and natural materials. The design nods to the nearby ruins, blending seamlessly into the jungle; instead of stark white spaces, the interiors are seductive, even a little sensual.
Our magnificent suite was perhaps the best on the property: room 38 has its own covered terrace extending from the bedroom, and the crowning glory: a roof terrace with unparalleled jungle and ocean views. Would I come back? In a pinch – and next time maybe try the beautiful treehouses hanging from the top of the forest canopy.
Thanks to Nômade’s holistic and well-being orientation, a few hours after my arrival, I had already signed up for yoga, meditation and reflection classes by the fire. Travel curators ensure that each week there is a stream of activities that leaves room for free time – and guest speakers and guides provide expert input. During our stay, famous sex, love and relationship coach Bibi Brzozka offered inclusive daily workshops. A highlight was also the daily breakfasts, where we alternated feasting on chilaquiles and açaí bowls.
Ticket needed for pool and beach, this was for exploring Tulum. The famous Tulum Ruins archaeological site is one of the best preserved Mayan villages – its cliffside location creates a dramatic scene. Arrive early to avoid crowds and allow plenty of time to visit the observation tower and museum.
Next, a walk around Tulum town looking for a trinket or two for our new home, then some tacos – and Los Primos Taqueria Tulum did not disappoint. Don’t be afraid to stray a little from the main road: small craft shops are hidden and waiting to be explored. As a treat, for our last dinner, we indulged in a tasty combination of contemporary Mexican cuisine and Sicilian technique: Clima Ristorante is a corner of Yucatan Italy, located at the entrance to the chic La Valise hotel.
Valladolid After a week of sunbathing, stretching and sleeping, it’s time to dive deeper into the culture. Ninety minuets by car or train from Tulum is the cultural hotspot of Valladolid. The city was founded in 1543, named after the eponymous sister city of Spain. After centuries of conflict, marking what was happening in Mexico on a national scale, the city came into its own after 1910, when it was one of the first sites of the Mexican Revolution.
Today, history is best absorbed by walking the streets. The Calz de Los Crailes de Sisal is a treasure trove of workshops, restaurants and other interesting discoveries. Colorful houses add a kaleidoscopic touch. When it’s time to cool off, Cenote Zaci is the city’s party pool: a large landscaped cenote that includes a seven-meter jump for the bravest. Eat in Los Portales for local cuisine, with a great location – the Coconut Hominy is a must-try corn drink with a coconut flavor. RojaCasa serves the best coffee in town, with great views, a central courtyard and evening film screenings.
Every evening at 9 p.m., a spectacular light show is projected onto the central Cathedral of San Servacio. It’s free, lasts around 30 minutes and is a fascinating digital account of the region’s history.
After each adventure in Valladolid, we return to the refuge of our charming little casa that I had found and reserved online. Casa La Sultane features a bedroom with air conditioning, a large open living room and my favorite: a lush garden retreat with hammock and swimming pool. Best of all, it’s just a two-minute walk from Calz de Los Crailes.
Then, perhaps saving the best for last, it’s time to visit one of the 7 Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I walked around Chichen Itza in near-silent amazement for two hours. The archaeological site features a large collection of Mayan structures and ruins, providing insight into what the Yucatan’s largest city was like between 700 and 1200 AD. Chichen Itza is a 30-minute drive from Valladolid – be there for the opening to avoid the crowds, and entry costs £30.
Jared Ruttenberg Jared Ruttenberg is a travel writer from Cape Town, South Africa. He loves connecting people and experiences through words, images and social media.
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