You may remember a few months ago that we had the pleasure of staying at the Gilpin Hotel & Lake Housebetween Kendal and Windermere, in the Lake District. As part of this stay, we dined at the hotel’s Gilpin Spice restaurant, 2 AA Rosette.
A few changes have occurred since that visit, including the recruitment of new chef de cuisine, Ralph Rojas – previously at Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat – to spearhead Gilpin Spice’s pan-Asian concept. With its introduction comes a new menu which we had the chance to sample this week.
Our evening began with a welcome aperitif and snacks (the Cornish crab and smoked pike roe being a particular treat) on the new Laurent-Perrier Terrace, as well as the chance to chat with Chef Ralph before heading inside Gilpin Spice.
Front row seats at the pass On this occasion we were seated directly at the chef’s table counter, right up against the open kitchen. It’s always a pleasure to see talented chefs at work – woks lit, flames shooting from the grill, sushi prepared and rolled and plates quickly assembled – and this is no exception. The show somehow gives extra energy to the evening.
The menu leans heavily on small plates, sharing dishes and sushi inspired by the flavors of the Spice Trail, as well as a few hearty main courses.
Proceedings began with shrimp crackers served with a coriander and sweet chili emulsion. Simple, light and wonderful with a refreshing glass of New Zealand Sauvignon.
After a selection of sushi, including the deliciously rich and buttery otoro (the fatty belly of bluefin tuna), came the small plates.
Small plates range in price from just £7 (Cha Saar tomato soup) to £17 (scallops – with tangy sweetcorn sauce). Our first was the Wagyu Tataki which was prepared right in front of us – finely seared Wagyu beef finished with truffle ponzu and truffle emulsion. Rich, heavy on umami and pure “melt in the mouth”.
My favorite was the grilled octopus. Very lightly charred, it was coated in a punchy Korean barbecue glaze and served with tofu mousse and chimichurri.
The “Kinilaw of the day” also stood out. This Filipino-style ceviche combined fresh tuna with coconut milk, vinegar, calamansi (an aromatic citrus fruit grown in the Philippines), chili peppers, ginger and crispy shallots. The acidity cuts through the coconut cream brilliantly.
Our last – but not least – small plate was the SFC (Spice Fried Chicken) – extra crispy chicken mixed with a tangy Korean hot sauce. But like all Gilpin Spice dishes, there’s always a delicate amount of spice that’s carefully balanced, rather than the “make your head explode” kind.
Among the large plates, priced from £21 (Tandoori spiced Hispi cabbage) to £42 (30-day aged British rib fillet), we had the beer-brined Cumbrian pork steak. The brine had kept the pork beautifully tender, and it was topped with wild mushrooms and a fragrant Thai Phat Phet glaze to give it a slightly spicy aromatic flavor.
As a side, we had Gilpin Spice’s famous egg fried rice which you may remember from our last visit, as well as a lovely crispy tender stem broccoli topped with crispy arare and a tofu mousse.
As you can imagine, we didn’t really have room for dessert, but it was rude not to at least share the coconut-lime sorbet, which turned out to be the perfect light, tangy cleanser to end a lovely evening.
During this presentation, Chef Ralph’s influence is sure to make Gilpin Spice the vibrant, casual dining spot that locals and visitors alike have come to love.
Paul Johnson Paul Johnson is the editor of A Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for over 30 years. He is the winner of the Innovations in Travel “Best Travel Influencer” award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog has also been voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best for luxury” by The Telegraph.
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