I remember the first time I saw a photo of Cara Delevingne on Tumblr, specifically her eyebrows. The brows that launched thousands (more like millions) of sales of Glossier’s Boy Brow. Since then, I’ve followed every trend: the full Delevingne arc, the ’90s pencil resurgence, and now, finally, the slow work of growing back what I always had.
The problem with eyebrows is that they control everything. They shape your expressions, frame your face, and have an outsized effect on how you look (or not) on any given day. That’s why finding the right shape for your specific face is more important than following the current trend.
Featured image of our interview with Sami Bernstein Spalter by Michelle Nash.
To find out how to do this, I turned to Amanda Robinson, owner of Iris+West LashCo in Los Angeles and the person responsible for Mandy Moore and Molly Baz’s eyebrows. With over a decade of experience in the beauty industry, Amanda has built a loyal following in Los Angeles for her natural, highly personalized approach to eyelash extensions and brow design. She founded Iris+West after seeing first-hand the damage and overly uniform results resulting from poor application techniques and decided to redefine the space with a focus on lash health, retention and customization.
Her tips were easier than expected and more helpful than any eyebrow tutorial I’ve ever watched. Fasten your seat belt.
The Face Mapping Technique You Need to Know
Before plucking a single hair, Robinson recommends this three-point face mapping method to find your ideal brow shape:
- Place a pencil vertically from the corner of your nose upwards: this is where your eyebrow should start.
- Angle it diagonally from the dimple of your nose toward the outside of your iris: this is where your arch should peak.
- Angle it from the side of your nostril to the outer corner of your eye: this is where your eyebrow should end.
“These three points give you your ideal beginning, arc, and end,” says Robinson. Whether you’re having your brows shaped professionally or filling them in at home, she adds: “Think of your upper and lower brow lines like train tracks: They should be parallel.” »
Work with what you have
Robinson’s philosophy is refreshingly simple: stop fighting with your natural brows. “My biggest advice is to work with what you naturally have,” she says. “Some people naturally have more of an arch, while others have a straighter or more rounded brow. While we can certainly refine the shape, I find that people feel better when we don’t fight too much about what’s naturally there.”
In the debate between thickness and thinness, Robinson is clear that shape and arch matter more than thickness. “As a general rule, bolder brows tend to suit stronger, more prominent features, while thinner brows complement more delicate brows. Fuller brows also tend to give a more youthful appearance.” But ultimately: “What gives you the most confidence is what will look best on you.” »
Common Eyebrow Mistakes and How to Fix Them
Even with the best intentions, eyebrows go wrong. Robinson’s Most Common Culprit: “The biggest mistake I see is cutting them too flat and straight on top. » His solution? “Cut one hair at a time, brush it in the direction you want and go slowly. You can always remove more, but you can’t put the hair back in place.”
Other mistakes to avoid:
- Using harsh products on your eyebrows: treat them like the rest of your face
- Choosing the wrong shade (your eyebrows don’t have to match your hair exactly)
- You expect perfect symmetry: your eyebrows are sisters, not twins
- Skip eyebrow care completely
How to Support Eyebrow Growth
If you’re in regrowth mode, whether from excessive plucking or a few years of thin brow trends, Robinson considers peptide-based serums her go-to recommendation. “Peptides condition and strengthen the hair follicle and promote healthy growth.” One thing to avoid: prostaglandin analogues. Although they can stimulate growth, Robinson advises them to be approached with caution: consult your dermatologist before adding one to your routine.
Best eyebrow pencils
For defining, shaping, and filling in sparse areas, a pencil is the most precise tool in your brow kit. Robinson recommends using light, hair-like strokes and letting the spoolie do the blending work.
Westman Workshop
This double-ended pencil features a retractable angled tip for hair-like strokes and a removable dry spool for blending. Made with 100% natural origin pigments and free from silicone, parabens and synthetic fragrance. The kind of pencil that makes your brows look like your own, but better.
Charlotte Tilbury
Brow Cheat Refillable Eyebrow Pencil
The refillable format alone is worth it: less waste, less costs over time. The ultra-fine tip mimics real brows so convincingly that the effect is less ‘filled in’ and more ‘you just had great brows today’. A firm, flexible formula with soft, buildable hold and a spoolie on the other end for blending.
Rare beauty
The angled rectangular tip is everything here: it makes drawing individual hair-like strokes really easy rather than ambitious. Waterproof, sweat and oil resistant, available in six shades, neither too waxy nor too creamy. At $19, it outperforms pencils twice as expensive.
Best eyebrow gels
If your brows are naturally full but need some taming, or if you want a brushed-up, layering-adjacent look without the commitment, a gel is your solution. Clear formulas work on all brow colors; tinted ones add a soft fill.
REFY Beauty
The brow gel that started a thousand dupes: REFY’s reformulated wax-gel hybrid delivers 12 hours of sculpted hold with a clear, flake-free finish. The dual-ended applicator (brush on one side, comb on the other) gives you real control over whether you’re going to get fluffy or spiky. Works on all brow colors and types and doesn’t require a full routine to look intentional.
Iris and Romeo
Brow Up Thickening Eyebrow Balm
Three products in one: this clean eyebrow balm tints, maintains and actually works on the health of follicles over time. The clinically proven blend of plant proteins and amino acids supports brow growth from the inside out, while biotin, panthenol and botanical waxes give you flexible, natural hold without any cracking. No nylon, no synthetic waxes, no microplastics.
ILIA
ILIA Clear Brow Gel represents what brow care looks like when done right. It’s clinically proven to last for eight hours without flaking and is formulated with hydrolyzed quinoa and a hair renewal complex that conditions and strengthens with every use. Clean, fragrance-free, and the kind of product that makes your brows look polished without looking finished.
Best Eyebrow Serums
For anyone in regrowth mode (following excessive hair removal, thinning or simply years of looking for trends), a serum acts at the follicle level rather than on the surface. Consistency is what makes them work; these are not instant gratification products.
Private Beauty
Founded by actress Rebecca Rittenhouse, Privet is the rare celebrity beauty brand that stands out for its ingredients rather than its personality. This peptide-rich serum sets brows with medium, flake-free hold, while eight botanicals and B vitamins support long-term growth. The formula is so lightweight that it barely feels like it’s there, until you look in the mirror and realize your brows are exactly where you left them.
Iris + West
The serum that Robinson is looking for at Iris+West for clients in regrowth mode. Powered by a Phyto-Medic complex (ginseng, paeonia root, hydrolyzed proteins, squalane, ceramides), this clinically proven formula targets over-plucked, thin and uneven brows. Drug-free, irritant-free and the kind of thing that works well enough that you start wondering why your brows look different before you remember you used it.
The position An Eyebrow Expert Taught Me This Face Mapping Trick and Now I Won’t Tweeze Without It appeared first on Camille Styles.
