Hugs all around as Saint Laurent hooded dress returns to Paris runway
Under the twinkling lights of the Eiffel Tower, Saint Laurent reinvents the hoodie. Or rather, she reinvented Yves Saint Laurent's hooded dress, also known as the hood.
First shown in 1969, it was a dress of such longevity that the designer brought it out again in 1985 and again in 2002 during the last couture show before his death in 2008.
The fabric has changed every time - from thick jersey to something lighter and more transparent. But the bones were the same. Alongside the Mondrian dress, the hood remains one of the brand's most famous garments to this day.
Its artistic director, Anthony Vaccarello, described his version like an “extension of the fabric over the mannequin’s head” – but for the rest of us it was a dress with a hood. Hers came in a heavyweight silk jersey knit in muted shades of green, bronze and purple. It was unforgiving and floor-length, but even if you didn't have the courage (or the budget) to wear one, it was a moment of elegance in an otherwise impressive collection. which married old YSL codes with the 40-year-old Belgian new.
Saint Laurent is not a brand known for prioritizing comfort. But the majority of the collection shown in Paris - see-through tank dresses that left little to the imagination and five-inch heels - were comfortable enough. For each sheer top there was a pair of cashmere jogging bottoms and the finale featured a sequence of raised silky pajamas in dark tones and polka dots.
Unusually for a spring collection, it was mostly a show about big, beautiful coats. They came in black and tan, resembling leather armor. Worn with dresses, the hourglass silhouette was the most androgynous of fashion weeks so far, as you'd expect from a brand that's reimagined the women's tuxedo. " data-spacefinder-role="inline" data-spacefinder-type="model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement" class="dcr-10khgmf">
Under the twinkling lights of the Eiffel Tower, Saint Laurent reinvents the hoodie. Or rather, she reinvented Yves Saint Laurent's hooded dress, also known as the hood.
First shown in 1969, it was a dress of such longevity that the designer brought it out again in 1985 and again in 2002 during the last couture show before his death in 2008.
The fabric has changed every time - from thick jersey to something lighter and more transparent. But the bones were the same. Alongside the Mondrian dress, the hood remains one of the brand's most famous garments to this day.
Its artistic director, Anthony Vaccarello, described his version like an “extension of the fabric over the mannequin’s head” – but for the rest of us it was a dress with a hood. Hers came in a heavyweight silk jersey knit in muted shades of green, bronze and purple. It was unforgiving and floor-length, but even if you didn't have the courage (or the budget) to wear one, it was a moment of elegance in an otherwise impressive collection. which married old YSL codes with the 40-year-old Belgian new.
Saint Laurent is not a brand known for prioritizing comfort. But the majority of the collection shown in Paris - see-through tank dresses that left little to the imagination and five-inch heels - were comfortable enough. For each sheer top there was a pair of cashmere jogging bottoms and the finale featured a sequence of raised silky pajamas in dark tones and polka dots.
Unusually for a spring collection, it was mostly a show about big, beautiful coats. They came in black and tan, resembling leather armor. Worn with dresses, the hourglass silhouette was the most androgynous of fashion weeks so far, as you'd expect from a brand that's reimagined the women's tuxedo. " data-spacefinder-role="inline" data-spacefinder-type="model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement" class="dcr-10khgmf">
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