JordanLuca RTW Fall 2023
For Fall 2023, London-based Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto reflected on the times current uncertainties. Global warming, war, the pandemic and social tensions were obvious to the designers, who wondered what a wardrobe should look like to get through such a moment.
Rather than style, their primary focus was posture, which sparked a deep dive into garment construction. They created what Marchetto described as the "bulldog" shoulder, which gave cashmere suits, knits and coats the impression of volume and forward movement. It was the duo's way of metaphorically telegraphing the need to act, to press on with determination, and to face whatever lies ahead. More pragmatically, it offered a bold twist on classic silhouettes and wryly reinvented other wardrobe staples, such as button-up, one-shoulder shirts and ties.
The feeling of movement was amplified by the designers' signature flared denim pants with speed trains at the back as well as pleated skirts and printed silk dresses.
To temper the harsh mood, the duo also introduced whimsical elements via digital prints of fairies, sultry transparencies contrasted with artful chunky knits, as well as camouflage patterns rendered in pink for a luminous accent.
Still, the designers' personal note was the collaboration with British sportswear brand Lonsdale, that they have always appreciated for her heritage and that she had never worked with a fashion brand before. The link resulted in reworked archival prints and pieces, including an off-the-shoulder fleece sweater, a sliced hoodie layered over a biker jacket, and three-stripe logo breeches.
For Fall 2023, London-based Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto reflected on the times current uncertainties. Global warming, war, the pandemic and social tensions were obvious to the designers, who wondered what a wardrobe should look like to get through such a moment.
Rather than style, their primary focus was posture, which sparked a deep dive into garment construction. They created what Marchetto described as the "bulldog" shoulder, which gave cashmere suits, knits and coats the impression of volume and forward movement. It was the duo's way of metaphorically telegraphing the need to act, to press on with determination, and to face whatever lies ahead. More pragmatically, it offered a bold twist on classic silhouettes and wryly reinvented other wardrobe staples, such as button-up, one-shoulder shirts and ties.
The feeling of movement was amplified by the designers' signature flared denim pants with speed trains at the back as well as pleated skirts and printed silk dresses.
To temper the harsh mood, the duo also introduced whimsical elements via digital prints of fairies, sultry transparencies contrasted with artful chunky knits, as well as camouflage patterns rendered in pink for a luminous accent.
Still, the designers' personal note was the collaboration with British sportswear brand Lonsdale, that they have always appreciated for her heritage and that she had never worked with a fashion brand before. The link resulted in reworked archival prints and pieces, including an off-the-shoulder fleece sweater, a sliced hoodie layered over a biker jacket, and three-stripe logo breeches.
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