Meera Sodha's Vegan Recipe for Pumpkin Rasam | The new vegan

Rasam is the equivalent of chicken soup for many who live in southern India. It is usually sour with tamarind and tomatoes, but also with broth, spices and herbs. All these qualities make it restorative and invigorating: I feel like I can see more clearly after eating it. My rasam has the same essential qualities as the original, but I have adapted it to the colder weather of Britain. I've given it more consistency by using split peas and sugar pumpkin, which means it can be eaten on its own or with rice - as opposed to being part of a main meal, as it is in India.

Pumpkin Rasam

To reduce cooking time (and energy bill), soak split peas before bed the day before cooking. If you forget, you can still do it, but you will have to increase the cooking time for the peas up to 90 minutes. If you can't find a Pumpkin Delica, use another pumpkin or squash instead.

Prep 5 min Soak 6 hrs + Cook 1 hr 10 min Serves 4

200g yellow split peas1 x 900g pumpkin (I used delica, but any will do)Neutral rapeseed oilFine sea salt1 tsp black mustard seeds¼ tsp fenugreek seeds1 x 400g canned crushed tomatoes2 tbsp (30g) tamarind paste – I use Thai Taste¼ tsp ground black pepper1¼ tsp ground coriander1¼ tsp ground cumin1 teaspoon Kashmiri chili powder½ teaspoon turmeric2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced2 green chilies, split Fresh coriander and basmati rice, for serving

Put the split peas in a large bowl, wash very well with a few changes of water, then drain. Cover with fresh, cold water and soak for at least six hours.

Heat oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/Gas 7, and line two medium baking sheets with parchment paper (mine is reusable).

Wash the pumpkin, cut it in half, core and compost the seeds, then cut them into 2 cm wedges with the skin at the widest part. Drizzle with a tablespoon and a half of oil, sprinkle with a quarter teaspoon of salt, then toss with your hands so that the entire pumpkin is coated. Put on the sheets, bake for 25 minutes, then remove and set aside.

In a large pot, heat two tablespoons of oil, add the seeds of mustard and fenugreek and cook for 30 seconds, until they burst. Add the drained yellow split peas followed by one and a quarter liters of cold water, put a lid on top, lightly cocked, then slowly bring to a boil over low to medium heat. Reduce the heat, simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes, then stir in the tomatoes, tamarind, black pepper, coriander, cumin, chili powder, turmeric and a teaspoon and a quarter of salt. Simmer another 20 minutes, until the split peas are tender; they should have the consistency of a baked potato when you bite into them.

Stir in two-thirds of the roasted pumpkin. wedges (reserve the best ones, which you will use for decoration later), simmer another six to eight minutes – don't worry if the pumpkin breaks; this will help thicken the rasam - then adjust the seasoning to taste, if necessary.

In another small saucepan, put two tablespoons of oil over medium heat and , when hot, add the garlic cloves and chiles and sauté for two minutes, or until the garlic is bronzed around the edges and the chiles are white as blisters.

Pour the garlic and chilli mixture into the rasam, then decant onto a tray or into individual bowls, and serve garnished with the reserved roasted pumpkin wedges and sprinkled with cilantro leaves, ideally with steamed basmati rice.