Proenza Schouler Ready-to-Wear Spring 2024

The boys at Proenza Schouler are in a contemplative mood.

"We went to bed at 8:30 p.m., without drinking, obsessed with every little detail of this collection and makes everyone crazy,” Lazaro Hernández said with a laugh during a preview of the spring 2024 collection.

It turns out that, like many of us surely, they have been thinking about the state of art and commerce. because it concerns all aspects of culture, but particularly fashion. For the duo, from Parsons, with 20 years of experience under their belt, it’s personal. But it's also a larger conversation in the industry about designers who aren't necessarily trained but are hired because of their ability to attract attention, about the renaissance of brands selling products more than new ideas, and so on.

“It makes us sad,” admitted Jack McCollough. “We are creative souls and somehow we put our blood, sweat and tears into this project and managed to survive and have a thriving business employing 100 people. Clothing should be commercial, but for our soul it should also be artful and hopeful. So it’s about finding that balance. »

They found it on Saturday afternoon in their superb spring collection with lots of light fabrics and convertible, easy and sophisticated. , their first denim and their first logo.

They held their exhibition at the Phillips Auction House, a place where “creativity collides with commerce and art”. is assessed on the level of value,” as they put it. And for a bit of fun, they take part, having created their first mark, or logo – an original work painted on paper which is being auctioned by Phillips alongside works by Ellsworth Kelly and Agnes Martin. (Bidding starts at $10,000.)

They spent two years working on the subtle brand, which is made up of two “P”s joined together to form an “S”, and it lived throughout the collection in the form of gold details on moccasins, belt buckles, relief on bags and jacquard on sweaters.

In another concession to commerce, they reworked their hit bag the PS1 as a wallet on a strap , a fanny pack and a squishy style, and I put it on the catwalk for the first time. And they introduced PS denim, made in California, with cool almost completely faded styles, and logo buttons on the front, of course.

They tapped Los Angeles singer Natalie Mering of Weyes Blood to open the show, before before she goes to Madison. Square Garden will perform Saturday evening. “Her music is slightly Joan-y and Mary Carpenter-y. We started making costumes for his tour, and that’s how we came together,” McCollough said. “She represents intellect, strength and soul,” Hernandez added of their main client.

Overall, they continued their wardrobe-building mission, starting from the first look, a chic and bright white. blazer, V-neck T-shirt and navy moleskin pants that were a casual spring version of a suit.

He set the tone for the relaxed and utilitarian collection, full of refined everyday pieces such than an airy white poplin shirt with drawstring hem, fishnet T, jeans and leather pants.

A pair of weightless gathered jersey dresses in black and red hugged the body and tube dresses in crocheted ribbon spoke to the duo's love of crafting.

A vaporous skirt decorated with embroidered shards of transparent sea green plastic, tied at the side by a delicate black ribbon, It was easy but special with a white long sleeve t-shirt and black flip flops, 90s style. And long sleeve sweater dresses can be worn conventionally, or as backless dresses with the head pulled up to neck level and the sleeves tied around the shoulders.

As Hernandez explained: "It's about how to make this simple thing understandable but conceptual." A.k.a. interesting — that’s the secret.