Rachel Roddy's Recipe for Baked Chicken and Rosemary Lemon Potatoes | A kitchen in Rome

Summer, its hardest season, the butcher's fridge below our apartment hums. It's not a constant buzzing, or even constant. Most of the time it looks like a tired bee stuck against a window pane in another room. But then, every once in a while, it gets louder, first turning into a cross wasp, then an old subway train, before dropping so suddenly, it looks like it's been turned off. It doesn't, of course, and soon, like a child playing or someone strolling happily, it starts humming again.

This refrigerator caused controversy in our building, being responsible for sleepless nights and a divorce. As someone who sleeps through almost everything, I only know the buzz level because it kept me company reading or scrolling my phone. The problem disappears in the winter, when the fridge, with less to do, is lowered, meaning the hum is more of a vibration through the tiles. Who are also warm. A shop, and a fridge, which inadvertently provides us with floor heating, as well as the chicken thighs for this week's recipe, also ideal for a party.

I went downstairs for 12 legs this week, and could see the fridge as I stood at the checkout. My butcher nods when I buy thighs, which I take more as a sign of approval than I'm not buying breasts. A medium chicken leg, with skin and bone, weighs 90-100g, which shrinks during cooking, so I estimate three per person.

The recipe starts with a marinade, during which time lemon tenderizes darker meat by denaturing or rolling out the long protein in the muscle and connective tissue, which also allows the garlic, rosemary and oregano to relax as well. This recipe is inspired by Rena Salaman and her wonderful book Greek Food, a loving celebration of traditional recipes. It's a mix of his lemon potatoes – soft and slightly sticky from the reduced oil and lemon juice – and his roast chicken and potatoes. Rena's note on the potatoes is relevant here: cooked with the chicken, they turn golden brown, but they aren't crispy like other roast potatoes, because of all the juice they soak up, and are all the better.

Like the fridge in the winter, this recipe isn't demanding – just a few steps and a tray – and very rewarding; warm not just the tiles, but the whole room and everyone.

Baked Chicken and Potatoes with Lemon and Rosemary

Serves 4 or 8 as part of a 'a buffet

1.2 kg chicken thighs with bone and skin5 potatoes, peeled and cut into wedges1 large lemon or 2 small150 ml olive oil4 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced2 sprigs of rosemarySalt2 tsp of dried oregano

Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas the potatoes in a large bowl, squeeze the lemon juice over them and add the olive oil, the garlic, the needles of a sprig of rosemary and another whole sprig, salt and oregano, and mix very well. Cut the empty lemon peels into wedges, add them to the bowl, toss again and let sit for 45 minutes, if you can.

Add the potatoes and chicken skin side down in a baking sheet that accommodates them more or less in a single layer, making sure to scrape up all the marinade, then roast for 45 minutes, flipping the chicken halfway through, it's now side skin up. Lift the chicken onto a platter, return the potatoes and lemon wedges to the oven and fry for about 10 minutes until the potatoes turn golden.

Transfer the potatoes and lemon to the chicken dish, put the dish on medium heat and add a little white wine to thin out the juices. Scrape the bottom of the tray with a wooden spoon to dislodge any bits, let the juices bubble up for about a minute, then pour over the chicken and potatoes and serve.