Rachel Roddy's Sweet and Sour Grilled Vegetables Recipe | A kitchen in Rome

The Strait of Messina is always lively, especially in July. Ferries – some carrying cars and trucks, others deconstructed trains – shuttle between Villa San Giovanni in Calabria and the port of Messina, 168 times a day, it seems, if you count all the different companies. We tell the same story every time we make the 7km trip: that Vincenzo's grandmother, Lilla, once swam in the strait. Although, if true, and we hope so, she probably crossed the narrowest point, between Capo Peloro and Cannitello, which is still 3.2 km and a bottleneck of strong tides and whirlpools. We also talk about the biggest suspension bridge ever built and what we should have for lunch.

Greek settlers named the city of Messina Ζάγκλη, or Zankle, because that its natural bearing is shaped like a scythe. It feels like you are sailing in an embrace and it is a good way to arrive in Sicily. The port is also a way to get your bearings in the city. Lose the smell of the sea and you might get lost on your way to lunch.

We were desperate when we arrived, late for lunch, and asked a table, any table, telling the man who seemed to be the owner that we would eat whatever they brought us. It was a relief for everyone when I stopped talking and two mats and cutlery were laid on a table outside a place called Casa e Putia. A few minutes later, two squares of frittata – one plain, the other green with spinach – arrived, and the same man reassured us that while the kitchen was still open and we could order whatever we wanted , he offered us the swordfish. Moments of joy are often a combination of relief (a table), satisfaction (frittata) and letting others decide.

The swordfish had been caught the day before, of the strait just a few hundred yards from where we were sitting. A thick, square steak, it was grilled and the most satisfying swordfish I have ever eaten. Equally good and memorable were the vegetables - grilled zucchini and eggplant. But, rather than being big slices seasoned with olive oil, salt and red wine vinegar, they've been cut into 1cm ribbons, a small (ordinary, but awesome) detail to copy more d 'once.

It's now been four times, and after making the recipe mine it has changed a bit, it's also thanks to the different dishes of caponata and sweet and sour aubergines we ate in Sicily this summer. While vegetables depend on what's available, zucchini, eggplant, and red or yellow bell pepper is my favorite combination. You need a cast iron griddle or metal grate balanced (carefully) on top of the gas stove or BBQ, as metal contact and cooking is important for flavor and texture.

You may have some sweet and sour syrup left. Save it, because after sitting for a while, the vegetables can take on a bit more. Four times in, and I can confirm that the sweet and sour grilled vegetables are good not only with fish, but also with chicken, cheese and bread, and with the pork and lemon polpette of the week last.

Sweet-and-tangy grilled vegetables

Preparation 10 minCooking 20 minFor 4 people

2 courgettes2 aubergines1 red pepper or yellowOlive oilSalt3 tbsp red wine vinegar2 tbsp caster sugar the bell pepper in large chunks as flat as possible, discarding the stem, seeds, and white skin: It doesn't matter how you do this, as long as they're a similar thickness. Put them all in a bowl and toss with olive oil.

Heat a ridged frying pan and, working in batches, lay the strips on the hot base and cook until tender. , well cooked and marked with lines, then flip and cook on the other side. Put on a plate.

Meanwhile in a small saucepan, heat the vinegar, sugar and a tablespoon of water and boil a little to make a syrup sweet and sour.

Cut the grilled vegetables into 1cm wide ribbons and put them in a bowl. Add three tablespoons of olive oil and a pinch of salt, then add the syrup little by little, tasting several times, until the sweet and sour level is right for you. Serve still hot or at room temperature.