Rochas RTW Spring 2023
This time last year, Charles de Vilmorin made his debut as creative director of Rochas with a punky collection engulfed in hand painted flames. Fast forward 12 months, and that fire seems to have been put out.
A subdued blue light bathed the show taking place in the lobby of the mythical Folies Bergère cabaret, which had been wrapped in white sheets, like an empty mansion. The mood was meant to evoke the aftermath of an all-night party.
The looks themselves were but a shadow of the designer's signatures: his oversized swirled designs replaced with graphic prints, and her gothic sensibility was traded in for romantic ruffled dresses and capes.
"I wanted a silhouette that you could project yourself into more easily. It happens to me in the opportunity,” he hesitated backstage.
The problem is that Rochas lacks a clear set of codes, and Vilmorin struggles to cling to any particular aspect of the house's archives. Like its plaid shorts that morphed into sheer pleated chiffon palazzo pants, this collection suffered from an identity crisis.
A fuchsia print crop top came with a matching skirt over trousers, while a tailored jacket oversized ivory with detachable sleeves were worn with stocking boots with round glass heels that looked like a love child of Balenciaga and Loewe shoe designs. The display ended with a sheer blouse and floor-length hoop skirt covered in a whimsical cat print.
From the generation of social networks, De Vilmorin was appointed to this position less than a year after his launch his label during confinement, and the 25-year-old player is still evolving his creative identity. Perhaps it was unfair to wait so long so soon, but he was in charge of reviving Rochas. At the moment, the brand is suffering from a weak pulse.
This time last year, Charles de Vilmorin made his debut as creative director of Rochas with a punky collection engulfed in hand painted flames. Fast forward 12 months, and that fire seems to have been put out.
A subdued blue light bathed the show taking place in the lobby of the mythical Folies Bergère cabaret, which had been wrapped in white sheets, like an empty mansion. The mood was meant to evoke the aftermath of an all-night party.
The looks themselves were but a shadow of the designer's signatures: his oversized swirled designs replaced with graphic prints, and her gothic sensibility was traded in for romantic ruffled dresses and capes.
"I wanted a silhouette that you could project yourself into more easily. It happens to me in the opportunity,” he hesitated backstage.
The problem is that Rochas lacks a clear set of codes, and Vilmorin struggles to cling to any particular aspect of the house's archives. Like its plaid shorts that morphed into sheer pleated chiffon palazzo pants, this collection suffered from an identity crisis.
A fuchsia print crop top came with a matching skirt over trousers, while a tailored jacket oversized ivory with detachable sleeves were worn with stocking boots with round glass heels that looked like a love child of Balenciaga and Loewe shoe designs. The display ended with a sheer blouse and floor-length hoop skirt covered in a whimsical cat print.
From the generation of social networks, De Vilmorin was appointed to this position less than a year after his launch his label during confinement, and the 25-year-old player is still evolving his creative identity. Perhaps it was unfair to wait so long so soon, but he was in charge of reviving Rochas. At the moment, the brand is suffering from a weak pulse.
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