Schiaparelli Couture Fall 2022
The Schiaparelli show that opened Paris Couture Week on Monday was a remarkable collision of timelines.
The collection designed by Daniel Roseberry, the American couturier who dresses everyone from Beyoncé to First Lady Jill Biden, was presented at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs on the same day the museum was to celebrate the opening of a retrospective dedicated to the founder of the house Elsa Schiaparelli.
In what must be a first in fashion history, many of the outfits featured on the catwalk are featured in the exhibit titled, "Shocking! The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli."
They include a black velvet coat with pockets in the shape of drawers, a reference to the "Bureau Drawer" costume that Schiaparelli created with the artist Salvador Dalí in 1936, and a velvet jacket with a trompe- the eye inspired by his collaboration with Jean Cocteau.
"When the exhibit was originally conceived, I think the danger was that it would have seemed too scholarly in a way. I think Elsa's legacy, the connection to today today and all, really came to life in an amazing way, so I'm really excited," the designer said in a preview.
"It gives a whole other layer of depth to how people can relate to the brand and where some of these ideas come from and why they make sense," he added.
You might have expected Roseberry to mark the occasion by doubling down on the edgy, surreal designs that propelled him to fame. Instead, he showed off his most orthodox collection yet, steeped in the couture tropes that inspired him as a teenager.
Front row: Christian Lacroix, who launched the revival of Schiaparelli in 2013 with a unique tribute collection. The pair recently spoke for an Interview magazine article, and the conversation sparked a spark.
Tributes to Lacroix dotted the range, from the huge satin swirls of a dove gray pouf skirt, to Provencal-style straw boater hats, and a velvet choker suspended from a heavy metal cross. Crisply cut black velvet costumes were spliced with corseted bellies or covered with crowns of colorful artificial flowers.
"It's all hand-cast pearlescent leather," Roseberry said, pointing to a strapless black dress with tulip blooms on it. “Tulip petals are shaped on spoons. It's an unreal exercise."
The flower images are taken from "A Passion for Flowers", a tome by Carolyne Roehm sitting on her grandmother's coffee table. By seeking out these first impressions, Roseberry hopes to evoke a sense of "creative innocence" in her work.
For fashion lovers, it marked an extraordinary journey, from the 1930s, when Schiaparelli designed the skeleton dress that inspired Saskia de Brauw's high-cut corset, through the 1980s, which saw Lacroix dynamite fashion with its baroque aesthetic, up to now-day, with Roseberry redefining red carpet dressing for a fearless generation.
The designer said he hopes his collections will go down in fashion history. For once, it is possible to say without hindsight that this one has already done it.
The Schiaparelli show that opened Paris Couture Week on Monday was a remarkable collision of timelines.
The collection designed by Daniel Roseberry, the American couturier who dresses everyone from Beyoncé to First Lady Jill Biden, was presented at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs on the same day the museum was to celebrate the opening of a retrospective dedicated to the founder of the house Elsa Schiaparelli.
In what must be a first in fashion history, many of the outfits featured on the catwalk are featured in the exhibit titled, "Shocking! The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli."
They include a black velvet coat with pockets in the shape of drawers, a reference to the "Bureau Drawer" costume that Schiaparelli created with the artist Salvador Dalí in 1936, and a velvet jacket with a trompe- the eye inspired by his collaboration with Jean Cocteau.
"When the exhibit was originally conceived, I think the danger was that it would have seemed too scholarly in a way. I think Elsa's legacy, the connection to today today and all, really came to life in an amazing way, so I'm really excited," the designer said in a preview.
"It gives a whole other layer of depth to how people can relate to the brand and where some of these ideas come from and why they make sense," he added.
You might have expected Roseberry to mark the occasion by doubling down on the edgy, surreal designs that propelled him to fame. Instead, he showed off his most orthodox collection yet, steeped in the couture tropes that inspired him as a teenager.
Front row: Christian Lacroix, who launched the revival of Schiaparelli in 2013 with a unique tribute collection. The pair recently spoke for an Interview magazine article, and the conversation sparked a spark.
Tributes to Lacroix dotted the range, from the huge satin swirls of a dove gray pouf skirt, to Provencal-style straw boater hats, and a velvet choker suspended from a heavy metal cross. Crisply cut black velvet costumes were spliced with corseted bellies or covered with crowns of colorful artificial flowers.
"It's all hand-cast pearlescent leather," Roseberry said, pointing to a strapless black dress with tulip blooms on it. “Tulip petals are shaped on spoons. It's an unreal exercise."
The flower images are taken from "A Passion for Flowers", a tome by Carolyne Roehm sitting on her grandmother's coffee table. By seeking out these first impressions, Roseberry hopes to evoke a sense of "creative innocence" in her work.
For fashion lovers, it marked an extraordinary journey, from the 1930s, when Schiaparelli designed the skeleton dress that inspired Saskia de Brauw's high-cut corset, through the 1980s, which saw Lacroix dynamite fashion with its baroque aesthetic, up to now-day, with Roseberry redefining red carpet dressing for a fearless generation.
The designer said he hopes his collections will go down in fashion history. For once, it is possible to say without hindsight that this one has already done it.
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