Why Portuguese wine is hard to beat | Fiona Beckett drinking
Those of you who think Portuguese wine is all about off-dry rosé and cheap fries, sparkling vinho verde might be surprised to learn that the recent tasting wine from Portugal was one of the most exciting I have been to this year. With the exception of Italy, nowhere rivals Portugal for individuality and the number and variety of its native grape varieties. And if you need further proof, delve into the wine list at Nuno Mendes' incredible new restaurant Lisboeta or head to Tobacco Dock in east London this weekend for a festival dedicated to the Portuguese food and wine called Festa, which was orchestrated by the excellent Bar Douro.
You might assume that the reds would be Portugal's forte, but I find the equally convincing whites of the country. If you're not familiar with them, I'd start with alvarinho, the Portuguese answer to Spanish albariño just across the border. Or, in more classic vinho verde style, try the immensely refreshing 2020 Cascata (£11.99, or £10.49 if you mix 12, Laithwaites, 11.5%), which is a blend of loureiro, arinto , trajadura and avesso (see what I about the varieties?).
White wines from the Dão and Douro regions tend to be richer and more textured - think of the oaky white rioja or the whites of the Rhône for comparison. A good example is the 2021 Somontes Branco (£11.95 Davy's, 13%), a wine I'd happily drink with grilled pork or local salt cod.
Douro reds are usually made from the same grapes as port – that is, varieties such as touriga nacional, tinta barroca and tinta roriz – and produce wines that are just as rich and full-bodied. The standard of supermarket own-brand red douro is particularly high, and Booths' new bottling in today's selection is a particularly good example of this. You will also find lighter and more innovative styles such as the delicious Niepoort Primata Natcool, which is only 11%. For more supple Italian reds, turn to the Alentejo.
Portugal's other asset is the quality/price ratio, as the locals call it. French. Not that all the wines are cheap, but they tend to be better value for money than comparable wines from elsewhere. Aldi, in particular, has some real bargains right now, some of which I've touched on before, including Mimo Moutinho Arinto Vinho Verde 2021 (£5.29, 11.5%) and the specially selected 2019 Douro Reserva (6 £.79, 13.5% ).
In fact, I had an even harder time than usual narrowing down my recommendations to five this week, so enjoy -in to try them when you find them by the glass.
Five Portuguese wines to discover
Those of you who think Portuguese wine is all about off-dry rosé and cheap fries, sparkling vinho verde might be surprised to learn that the recent tasting wine from Portugal was one of the most exciting I have been to this year. With the exception of Italy, nowhere rivals Portugal for individuality and the number and variety of its native grape varieties. And if you need further proof, delve into the wine list at Nuno Mendes' incredible new restaurant Lisboeta or head to Tobacco Dock in east London this weekend for a festival dedicated to the Portuguese food and wine called Festa, which was orchestrated by the excellent Bar Douro.
You might assume that the reds would be Portugal's forte, but I find the equally convincing whites of the country. If you're not familiar with them, I'd start with alvarinho, the Portuguese answer to Spanish albariño just across the border. Or, in more classic vinho verde style, try the immensely refreshing 2020 Cascata (£11.99, or £10.49 if you mix 12, Laithwaites, 11.5%), which is a blend of loureiro, arinto , trajadura and avesso (see what I about the varieties?).
White wines from the Dão and Douro regions tend to be richer and more textured - think of the oaky white rioja or the whites of the Rhône for comparison. A good example is the 2021 Somontes Branco (£11.95 Davy's, 13%), a wine I'd happily drink with grilled pork or local salt cod.
Douro reds are usually made from the same grapes as port – that is, varieties such as touriga nacional, tinta barroca and tinta roriz – and produce wines that are just as rich and full-bodied. The standard of supermarket own-brand red douro is particularly high, and Booths' new bottling in today's selection is a particularly good example of this. You will also find lighter and more innovative styles such as the delicious Niepoort Primata Natcool, which is only 11%. For more supple Italian reds, turn to the Alentejo.
Portugal's other asset is the quality/price ratio, as the locals call it. French. Not that all the wines are cheap, but they tend to be better value for money than comparable wines from elsewhere. Aldi, in particular, has some real bargains right now, some of which I've touched on before, including Mimo Moutinho Arinto Vinho Verde 2021 (£5.29, 11.5%) and the specially selected 2019 Douro Reserva (6 £.79, 13.5% ).
In fact, I had an even harder time than usual narrowing down my recommendations to five this week, so enjoy -in to try them when you find them by the glass.
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