Willy Chavarria RTW Spring 2023

The complex interconnections between religious beliefs and fashion are increasingly recognized by scholars, journalists and fashion enthusiasts.

The list of swaps between fashion and religion is long, dating back to the late 1930s when Elsa Schiaparelli borrowed the symbols of the Vatican flag and embroidered the keys of St. Peter on an evening suit, launching the "Heavenly Line".

Latinos often describe their faith as intimate and reciprocal relationships with God, family and community, these relationships play an important role in health and well-being. And as such, designer Willy Chavarria presented his latest spring collection at the historic Marble Collegiate Church (founded in 1628), one of the oldest continuous Protestant congregations in North America.

No stranger to religious controversy, famed artist Madonna made a front row appearance , testifying that even the most powerful establishment in the world can be challenged, and in the same way that Chavarria proposed with its "Please Rise" collection.

"Because I was raised a Catholic, I firmly believe that good outweigh the evil, and I feel like there's a loss of God in the world,” Chavarria said backstage.

The Latino designer has seen a successful progression from season to season, and its latest offering is establishing itself as its highest and most extensive to date - amplifying tailoring details and tailoring, featuring a range of suits (mostly double-breasted) with a bold, strong shoulder paired with exaggerated collar shirts, cotton shirts resembling office collars, ultra-wide leg pants, oversized baggy skirts and shorts in variations ranging from all sequins to sheer organzas. "It was important to me to have a show for revered people, showing things in the most elegant, refined and respectable way," Chavarria said.

The range was a harmonious infusion of religious wear and classic workwear, complemented by the bulky in constant evolution of Chavarria silhouette.

Chavarria has mastered the art of mixing workwear elements with streetwear, this which always gives an unexpected but seductive silhouette. This time the monastic vibes took over, with pieces such as oversized white crew neck t-shirts (knee-length) paired with all-black pants (for the altar boys), red mesh tops cardinal with words such as "Cathesicm" and floor-length long coats that look like clergy vestments.

"I can't walk away from sex, but it was about sensuality", Chavarria said. And in a season where many collections featured sexually charged looks or hints of sexual tension, Chavarria chose to go the opposite route. Although many of her looks generally offer a sexual overtone, the designer said her latest offering is rooted in sensuality over sexuality - "sexuality is so easy, everyone is having sex right now, and I feel like we've lost that incredible elegance that lives in sensuality."

Uses of transparencies via oversized sheer organza shorts, mesh tops revealing subtle accents of skin, boxy work shirts buttoned just above the waist (exposing the torsos) and a black coated tank top paired with papal red satin trousers adorned with an oversized rose and a large pleated train, fit in the refined universe of Chavarria.

The designer also highlights collaborations with Pro Club, FB County and Dickies, styled within the high range. "It was important to give these iconic labels the attention they deserve because they have had such an impact on American style," Chavarria said.

The show's opening sequence included an a cappella song, written by the singer, songwriter and artist American Dorian Wood, which touched on the realities of being divided, with walls between us, and how we are separated by the powers that be. These notions also permeated the show's cast of street models, featuring models of all races (not just Latinos). "It was about solidarity and the strength that we have when we are with our people, it's one of the most beautiful things to see," Chavarria said.

Does the Latino d...