Arriving at Old Luxters Farm in Chiltern Valley Winery and Brewery it could be Champagne. Vineyards in neat rows, located on south-facing hills. The sun sparkles on white soil of limestone, marl and clay, enriched with minerality from 150 million year old oyster fossils. Chalk vein which swirls northwest of Chablis passing through Champagne, under the Channel and south of England.
Seven miles north of Henley-on-Thames and seven miles west of Marlow, this promising land was a pig farm until David Ealand, once a maritime lawyer, bought the land in 1980 and commissioned a soil test. “Grow grapes or rhubarb” was the recommendation. Goodbye pigs.
Some 70 wine, beer and spirits awards later, visitors come for generous tastings and stay in comfortable rooms in the wood-beamed farmhouse.
Just 40 miles west of London, a stay at Chiltern Valley Winery and Brewery is an idyllic retreat of rolling green hills, winding lanes and birdsong. In the past, England imported wine and exported wine tourists. Now this balance is changing. As the climate warms, the cooler Chiltern Hills provide perfect conditions for sparkling wines and elegant whites. Whisper it softly; French wine growers are buying land with English postcodes.
The reception After parking in the narrow lane which leads to a paved courtyard with chairs, wooden tables and umbrellas, we meet Hayley in the shop who guides us to our accommodation and tells us the times of our stay.
Check-in is at 2:30 p.m. Time to drop off our luggage in our room and prepare for the wine tasting at 3:00 p.m.
The room The Pool House Shed, with a king-size bed, is charming and self-deprecating. Few “cabins” offer a view of the vineyards and exclusive use of a 12-meter swimming pool heated from May to September. Additionally, a hot tub and sauna are used all year round. Also add a Smart TV, Nespresso coffee machine and refrigerator.
Perhaps an irresistible option is to sip a chilled glass of the vineyard’s Bacchus – a Sauvignon blanc-style white with notes of strawberries and cream with a layer of brioche – poolside. Is this Britain’s most desirable ‘shed’?
Alternatively, there are four country-style rooms with nooks, crannies and sloping ceilings in the old stone and brick farmhouse. Think king-size beds, statement mirrors, heavy dark wood doors and spacious bathrooms stocked with English Aromatics toiletries. Guests simply enjoy heading downstairs for a made-to-order farmhouse breakfast.
The facilities A tour of the cellar and brewery, including tastings of four wines, four beers and four liqueurs, is the star attraction.
Helen, who sniffed and tasted fruits and spices blindfolded to heighten her senses as part of her wine tasting studies, introduces us to the skills needed to become a “wine detective.” Encouragingly, she proclaims, “The more wine you taste, the better you get,” while swirling a glass of gently chilled pinot noir, aerating it to enhance the aromas. This light pale ruby red, easy to drink in summer, is the latest creation from Jarred, the South African-born winemaker.
On a south-facing hillside, nestled in the folded hills of the Chilterns, tall beech trees protect the budburst of vines in May from late spring frosts. Even local bats line up alongside winemakers to gobble up thousands of insects.
The wine tasting turns into an introduction to a selection of beers. Pawel, the brewery’s Polish brewer, prides himself on handcrafting the wort from hops, malt, water and yeast with an agitator that resembles a holed oar. A royal warrant adorns the brewery. The late Prince Phillip was said to be quite partial to Luxters Barn Ale.
To conclude with a range of liqueurs, a wild peach vodka will please everyone, as will a plum vodka. Finally, a glass of creamy Irish liqueur awaits you in the shop.
Everything you need to plan your trip in 2026 The location Situated on the Chiltern Cycle Path, Luxters Yard is a welcome stop for cyclists and walkers. Of course, this gentle landscape is privileged Midsomer Murders territory; the vineyard playing the role of a gin distillery in one episode.
Head south to discover culture and history among the Georgian facades of Henley-on-Thames. There’s a pub where Charles I drank, a Chantry House, a butcher who smokes his own meat, and a plethora of major events. Book with Luxters for the Royal Regatta, Henley Festival, Literary Festival and the 1980s Music Rewind Festival. Just outside the town, Grays Court, managed by the National Trust, is also worth a visit. obviously presenting Luxters products in their store.
Nearby Marlow is also home to many independent vessels, the famous Complete angler hotel and even more opportunities to have fun with boats on the Thames.
Other Nice Touches Since it’s not advisable to try all of the winery and brewery specialties at a tasting, the shop offers wine tasting flights and beer tasting flights to catch up on what you may have missed.
Guests, lingering after a morning tasting or arriving early for their afternoon tasting, head to lunch at the food truck; maybe a board to share, a cold meat pizza, fish tacos…
In the evening, the winery offers a taxi service to and from The Stag and Huntsman for dinner in the nearby village of Hambleden.
The cost Currently a tour and tasting experience costs £25 per person.
Bed and breakfast rooms start at around £130 per night, rising to £275 for the Pool House Shed in high season.
The best piece Combine the exclusive rental of the five rooms around the farm with an event in the Grange du Vieux Luxter to celebrate important birthdays, big anniversaries or simply get-togethers with friends. Keeping it in the family, Lucie Ealand designs celebrations to order.
The final verdict A magical country retreat, with memorable wine tours and tastings, nestled in the surprisingly peaceful Chiltern Hills, providing a luxurious and relaxed base from which to explore the Thames Valley.
Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Chiltern Valley Winery and Brewery.
Michael Edwards Michael Edwards is a travel writer from Oxfordshire, United Kingdom. Although Michael published his first travel articles nearly four decades ago, he continues to find new luxury destinations to visit and write about.
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