Traveling by train is very different from other means of transport. You could even say that it is a kind of luxury. Unlike a plane trip, where you can look at your route or watch a movie, a train trip is somehow very different. It encourages you to look around a little more and I think you find yourself more immersed in the experience as a result. And a great example is the Chepe Express route that runs from the town of Creel to the Pacific coast of Mexico, crossing the Sierra Tarahumara.
Creel can be found in Chihuahuathe largest state in Mexico, comparable in size to UNITED KINGDOM. Arguably Mexico’s best-kept travel secret, Chihuahua is a world waiting to be discovered, with spectacular canyons, rivers, forests and UNESCO-listed archaeological sites.
And in the quiet, pine-scented mountain town of Creel, about 7,700 feet above sea level in northern Mexico’s Western Sierra, you’ll find yourself in the heart of the Rarámuri people – the legendary ultra-runners who cover long distances in thin sandals made from old car tires. Fittingly, the word “Rarámuri” means “light-footed” and the people have a deep connection with the land which is reflected in their traditions and crafts. Visiting their communities offers a glimpse into a way of life that has endured for centuries.
One of Creel’s main attractions is the nearby Mission of San Ignacio, one of the most leisurely and rewarding visits of the trip, often combined with excursions to the Valley of the Monks, Lake Arareco and other sites very closely linked to the Rarámuri people.
And it is from Creel that the Chepe Express – Mexico’s only luxury train – winds its way to the Pacific coast, covering around 350 kilometers of track. To truly appreciate this rail experience, travel first class and enjoy exclusive access to the open-air terrace and Urike Restaurant.
After about two hours the train will stop at Divisadero where everyone will get off. You should definitely do this as well and walk to the edge of the platform where you will notice that the floor seems to disappear. Three massive canyons: Urique, Tararecua, and the main Copper Canyon – all converge into a dizzying, jagged chasm. It is said to be four times larger than the Grand Canyon.
Once the whistle blows, and no doubt with your jaw still hanging open in astonishment, it’s time to get back on board. This is the opportunity to try the Urike dining car with its large glass walls. There’s something deliciously surreal about enjoying a meal and sipping a surprisingly decent Mexican red wine, while a vertical cliff that’s stood for millions of years slides about two inches from your left shoulder.
The descent through Chihuahua is equally spectacular, perhaps even more so if you’re interested in engineering as the train passes over high bridges, plunges into pitch-black tunnels and literally hugs the edge of a cliff.
In Cerocahui, another highlight of the trip, you can visit a boarding school run by nuns where Rarámuri girls study. You can also take walks to viewpoints like Cerro del Gallego, which offer striking views of Urique Canyon. Here, the connection with rural life and the local community seems more personal.
The landscape as you drive through the state of Sinaloa is dominated by thick, humid, subtropical green valleys and the temperature in the car begins to rise. By the time the wheels stop at El Fuerte, the alpine cold has completely disappeared.
This former Spanish colonial city is characterized by historic buildings and stone arcades. At just 300 feet above sea level, the heat is much stronger and palm trees are a common sight. It feels like a million miles from the mountain air of Creel.
The final section of the Chepe Express route is a flat route through farmland to Los Mochis, near the Sea of Cortés. The landing on the coast contrasts sharply with the beginning of the journey. It feels like we’ve experienced three different seasons in a single afternoon. This is why traveling by train – and especially on the Chepe Express route – is such an immersive experience.
It’s one that allows you to appreciate the vastness of Mexico and, being able to do so at a relaxed pace, is probably the greatest luxury of all. Additionally, the route also offers connections to complementary destinations along the Sea of Cortez and Baja. California Peninsula.
Disclosure: This article is sponsored by ¡Ah, Chihuahua!
Paul Johnson Paul Johnson is the editor of A Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for over 30 years. He is the winner of the Innovations in Travel “Best Travel Influencer” award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog has also been voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best for luxury” by The Telegraph.
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