25 years after Hong Kong's handover, designers explain how the city has shaped their identity

SHANGHAI Friday marks the 25th anniversary of the handover of the People's Republic of . Under an agreement signed with the Union in 1997, the former British colony could keep its capitalist system for 50 years. Under the One Country, Two Systems doctrine, continues to be a global financial and commercial center. But the city has also had difficult years in recent years. As one of the first cities to experience the ravages of COVID-19, the prolonged pandemic measures have driven out financial elites and hurt business. Hong Kong's economy contracted by 4% in the first quarter of this year, while the unemployment rate rose to 5%. also tore city residents apart, with many immigrating elsewhere after Hong Kong's national security law was introduced in 2020. More than 180 people were arrested and 115 suspects prosecuted, including media mogul Jimmy Lai and Apple Daily. Related Galleries The 25th anniversary marked Chinese President Xi Jinping's first visit outside mainland China since the start of the coronavirus pandemic in 2020. It is also his first visit to Hong Kong in five years. A man holding a child walks past a screen showing a live broadcast of Chinese President Xi Jinping speaking at a swearing-in ceremony for Hong Kong's new Chief Executive John Lee on July 1, 2022, in Hong Kong. Getty Images Arriving by train, Xi greeted onlookers at the West Kowloon station saying: After the storm, Hong Kong has risen from the ashes. It shows a vibrant vitality. So far, Hong Kong's status as a fashion capital with a rich hybrid culture remains intact. The city has given birth to fashion icons such as filmmaker Wong Kar Wai, legendary singer Leslie Zhang and lyricist and fashion columnist Wyman Wong. These superstars had a strong connection to the fashion industry, giving rise to renowned multi-brand boutiques such as Lane Crawford, Joyce and For young local designers, Hong Kong's rich culture remains the city's biggest draw. Philip Chu, designer of one of Hong Kong's first streetwear fashion brands, Groundzero, said what appealed to them was Hong Kong's cultural pluralism. Chinese and Western cultures mingle here and permeate everyone's life, we are also under the influence. I see interesting design ideas all over the city, Chu said. For Chu, the charm of the city lies in the tension between the dichotomy of a super elite fashion circle and a gritty underground scene, which has inspired her design in previous collections. A look from Groundzero. Courtesy But for Fiona Lau, one half of the design duo behind Ffixxed Studios, rent pressures have stymied the emergence of more creative subcultural elements. There are very few underground music venues, independent art galleries and small concept stores, which limits the creative expression of personal styles, Lau said. For designer Puilam Lau, public funds such as the Fashion Incubation Program and the Design Incubation Program were the biggest draw when she launched her womenswear brand John in 2017. Still, making a fashion brand in Hong Kong is a bit difficult as the market is still dominated by many European brands, Lau said. She sees the lack of a mature fashion industry ecosystem as one of the downsides of starting a brand here. For example, Hong Kong lacks PR firms willing to support designer brands. It also lacks local showrooms, internationally renowned magazines and media, and platforms such as select independent boutiques, she said. But for co-founder of The World Is Your Oysters, Calvin Chan, a menswear brand founded in 2014, developing the local Hong Kong market is still emotionally important to them. It's great that our designs are selling in our city, Chan said. A look from John courtesy In recent years the market focus has shifted towards diversity, we are seeing more and more local customers supporting local brands and platforms, said Derek Cheng, one half of , the Hong Kong-based inclusive label . The brand recently won a cash prize of 1 million renminbi, as well as an opportunity to collaborate with Li-Ning, a showroom in Paris, retail at Harrods and mentorship from OTB. But after the easing of lockdown measures in Hong Kong, I don't think fashion retail will rebound so quickly. They're not essential, said Percy Lau, who launched his eponymous eyewear brand in 2013. Karmuel Young, designer of his eponymous label, sees the advantage of being based in a free port city. We can easily source different materials from around the world, Young said. Meanwhile, Mainland China provides excellent professional manufacturing and production resources. Wilsonkaki designer Wilson Yip also found it easier to work with manufacturers in southern mainland China. We do sample and small production in Hong Kong, Yip said. However, our production partners in South China can respond quickly to our requests when our demand exceeds local capacity. Young sees Hong Kong as a useful launching pad for venturing into the global market. Starting with the Spring 2023 collection, he began showcasing his brand during Paris Men's Fashion Week. Two looks from the fall 2022 collection. Courtesy Some designers have also found the Hong Kong aesthetic to be a goldmine of design inspiration. Driven by 90s nostalgia, the aesthetic has gained momentum in the mainland Chinese market in recent years. The aesthetic Hong Kong hashtag garnered over 360 million clicks on Weibo. It's a metaphor that aptly describes the combination of Chinese and Western styles, Cheng said. In recent years, many designers have moved their studios to mainland China to be closer to production facilities and a growing market. Shanghai has become an obvious choice for brands like Ffixxed Studios, Groundzero and John. But designers remain hopeful about Hong Kong's future. Like many important historical moments, [the anniversary] means different things to different people for different reasons, Fixxed Studios Lau said. A lot has changed, but a lot has also stayed the same depending on your perspective. We like to stay positive and open to the future. Seeing all the changes that happen here as you grow gives you a complicated feeling. However, we can understand that Hongkongers are constantly striving for betterment, Cheng said. In the long run, the transfer is a good thing, said Percy Lau. Before Hong Kong's return, the sense of belonging was fragile, but establishing the new system is not something easy to achieve. After all, we had been under British rule for over 100 years. And for Wilsonkakis Yip, an extra stay for an extended weekend is also something to savor. A flag-raising ceremony takes place in Golden Bauhinia Square to mark the 25th anniversary of the return of former British colonies to Chinese rule, in Hong Kong on July 1, 2022. POOL/AFP via Getty Images Related: