Comforting reds to spend the winter | Fiona Beckett drinking

There's usually nothing to cheer about this time of year, and in 2022 there's even less than most. It is hard to think of a more depressing combination of circumstances, politically, economically and healthily, in addition to which it is suddenly dark at 5 p.m. My coping strategy is small treats: wraparound sweaters, deep rugs, hearty candles, cheese on toast, and a nice glass of red. In other words, hygge wine.

For those trying to moderate their consumption, it's all about quality, not amount. By that I don't mean expensive wines, but ones that will take you into your comfort zone (hygge, for those of you unfamiliar with the word, is the Danish term for cozy). In other words, the kind of wines you want to drink after a night out in the cold, whether watching a fireworks display or stuck on a platform waiting for a delayed train.

Such wines are mostly full-bodied and more alcoholic. You know, the usual suspects, although Malbec seems to be leading the pack these days. Grenache, Syrah and blends of both with Mourvèdre (GSM), Cinsault or Carignan found in southern Rhône, Languedoc and the tastes of Australia and South Africa, which have adopted successfully the GSM style. Even the basic Côtes du Rhône is hygge wine in my book, and the Co-op currently has a decent own-brand one for just £6 which is totally knocking, but make sure it's the 2021 vintage. Hygge is all about familiarity, rather than the more esoteric fringes of the wine world, although, that said, I was so struck by Armenian red in today's pick that I had to include it , not least because it packs an impressive concentration in its modest 13% ABV. I envy those of you who live near a Booths.

Some full-bodied reds like Cabernet, on the other hand, really need food to bring them to life. value. I find tannin a little intrusive outside of the context of a meal, so look for indications on the back label that the wine was aged in stainless steel or, more fashionably, in concrete (dating back to the days where many winemakers did not have access to expensive barrels).

Obviously it's a matter of taste, but I think young wines are more drinkable/hyggable than the old ones you might have stashed away that are more of what the Italians call a vino di meditazione (contemplative wine).

Oh, and Finally, a thought that might cheer you up: it's almost seven a.m. until the shortest day, and then the evenings start to brighten. Not that I expect to be out of the hygge wine zone until March.

Five wines for dark nights

Agramont Garnacha 2019 £5.99 Lidl, 14%. Ripe, generous and modern Spanish red that could even handle a curry.

Finca Lalande Organic Malbec 2021 £6.99 (on sale) Waitrose, 14%. Grab this great, jammy Malbec while it's on offer (it's normally £10.49).

Taste the Difference Discovery Collection Château Auzines Corbières 2018 £10 Sainsbury's, 14 .5%. A magnificent spicy Syrah-dominated red from the excellent Laurent Miquel. Far above your average private label Corbières.

Armenia Wine Company Yerevan 782BC Red 2020 £9.50 Stands, 12.5%. Gorgeous exotic red that is richer than you would expect from its ABV. Think stewed shoulder of lamb.

Domaine Saint-Gayan 'Ilex' Rasteau 2016 £15.75 Yapp Brothers, 14.5%. Classic Southern Rhone, heavy and spicy - made for wintery stews and casseroles.

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