Enter the new era of stealth wealth

A season-defining Bottega Veneta leads the way, while Gucci remains in limbo.
MILAN - Shortly after the last guest left the avocado-colored carpet that lined the Gucci showroom and stepped out of the brand's headquarters in the outskirts of town on Friday, #Gucci started to trend on Twitter. Was it because of the fabulous clothes that had just been presented on the catwalk? Was it because, once again, what we wore had been turned upside down for a new era?
No. It was because of the front row.
ASAP Rocky! Mane Skin! Dakota Johnson! And especially Xiao Zhan, the Chinese actor and singer, who sat next to Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri and practically caused a riot as he walked in and out of the show.
Indeed, the frenzy attached to such celebrities is probably the reason why Gucci even held a fashion show, since the brand is between designers and between ideas, judging by what has appeared on the catwalk.
Alessandro Michele, the newest creative director and the guy who transformed Gucci from a golden jet set avatar to a quirky big tent, is gone in November and Sabato De Sarno, who was hired to perform a reset, won't arrive until this spring (his first show is scheduled for September).
< img alt="" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/02/26/multimedia/26GUCCI-09-vmlt/ 26GUCCI-09-vmlt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg?auto=webp&quality=90" />Gucci, Fall 2023.Credit...Gucci
The current offering was designed by the studio team, and it was a time-lapse, like a bridge between the Michele and De Sarno eras: a little of this, a little of that, a few more GGs.
You can spot the Tom Ford of the early 90s in the logo belts and the velvet jeans, and some deceased Fords in the visible thongs under the hipster sheer pencil skirts. Check out Michele's quirky heritage in towering cheerleader feather hats and a Harry Styles-esque silver tinsel coat. Although Frida Giannini's interregnum, which took place from 2006 to 2014, seems to have been pretty much erased from the books.
It was all so familiar that when a simple a tailored gray overcoat appeared on 90s model Liisa Winkler, it struck a remarkable and palate-cleansing chord. Much has been said about how Gucci wants to move away from fashion and become more timeless. Ironically, if that's true and the coat was a harbinger of things to come, Gucci will, once again, be in style.
Introducing the Camelocracy

Fashion Feb 27, 2023 0 54 Add to Reading List

A season-defining Bottega Veneta leads the way, while Gucci remains in limbo.

MILAN - Shortly after the last guest left the avocado-colored carpet that lined the Gucci showroom and stepped out of the brand's headquarters in the outskirts of town on Friday, #Gucci started to trend on Twitter. Was it because of the fabulous clothes that had just been presented on the catwalk? Was it because, once again, what we wore had been turned upside down for a new era?

No. It was because of the front row.

ASAP Rocky! Mane Skin! Dakota Johnson! And especially Xiao Zhan, the Chinese actor and singer, who sat next to Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri and practically caused a riot as he walked in and out of the show.

Indeed, the frenzy attached to such celebrities is probably the reason why Gucci even held a fashion show, since the brand is between designers and between ideas, judging by what has appeared on the catwalk.

Alessandro Michele, the newest creative director and the guy who transformed Gucci from a golden jet set avatar to a quirky big tent, is gone in November and Sabato De Sarno, who was hired to perform a reset, won't arrive until this spring (his first show is scheduled for September).

< img alt="" src="https://static01.nyt.com/images/2023/02/26/multimedia/26GUCCI-09-vmlt/ 26GUCCI-09-vmlt-mobileMasterAt3x.jpg?auto=webp&quality=90" />Gucci, Fall 2023.Credit...Gucci

The current offering was designed by the studio team, and it was a time-lapse, like a bridge between the Michele and De Sarno eras: a little of this, a little of that, a few more GGs.

You can spot the Tom Ford of the early 90s in the logo belts and the velvet jeans, and some deceased Fords in the visible thongs under the hipster sheer pencil skirts. Check out Michele's quirky heritage in towering cheerleader feather hats and a Harry Styles-esque silver tinsel coat. Although Frida Giannini's interregnum, which took place from 2006 to 2014, seems to have been pretty much erased from the books.

It was all so familiar that when a simple a tailored gray overcoat appeared on 90s model Liisa Winkler, it struck a remarkable and palate-cleansing chord. Much has been said about how Gucci wants to move away from fashion and become more timeless. Ironically, if that's true and the coat was a harbinger of things to come, Gucci will, once again, be in style.

Introducing the Camelocracy