The magnificent Dior fashion show renews its old alliance with Scotland

Not every Dior show opens with a bagpipe concert, three different ways to wear a purple tartan and a sporran hanging from a belt instead of a pocket slipped under the arm. Dior's first show in Scotland for 70 years, held in Perthshire on Monday evening, was an affair of spirited splendor.

The pomp and ceremony of a Parisian fashion house have found their equal in the natural grandeur and splendor of Scotland. Dior is a luxury juggernaut that its creator, Maria Grazia Chiuri, described as being “like the national football team” of fashion; but the gardens of Drummond Castle in Perthshire are no stranger to glamour, either, having appeared on screen in Rob Roy and Outlander. It turned out to be a great combination. Judging by the weather, the ancient alliance between France and Scotland appears to be holding: the topiary-studded formal garden paths known as “Scotland's Versailles” have become a dazzling catwalk under a clear blue sky.

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Chiuri delved into Scottish influence with every look. There were maps of Scotland drawn on dresses, black Jacobean velvets, spats and a palette of yellows, purples and greens that Chiuri borrowed from the "cinematic" landscape seen during his visit to suppliers of tweed and cashmere, when planning this collection. The chainmail details and sturdy leather boots alluded to Scotland's sometimes bloody history. (There were also hints of Game of Thrones.) Chiuri, 60, belongs to a generation whose tartan is primarily associated with punk; the ghost of Vivienne Westwood appeared here, along with that of Mary, Queen of Scots.

Chiuri has painstakingly harnessed the beauty of Scotland to create items that will fill the trunks of Dior boutiques, but she also returned. The kilts were made in collaboration with young Scottish designer Samantha McCoach, whose Le Kilt brand updates the tradition for a new generation of wearers. Harris Tweed, Johnstons of Elgin and Esk Cashmere have all benefited from contracts to supply garments for this collection. “This is not just a moment of Scottish simulation designed for the catwalk, it represents real work for Scottish businesses,” said Justine Picardie, the author of several books on Dior, who collaborated with Chiuri in her research .

Backstage before the show, Chiuri said she wanted to highlight Scotland's textile heritage...