"I'm sorry, we're from Moscow." In Bali, belligerents learn to live together

Thousands of Russians and Ukrainians fled their homeland for Bali. But even in a tropical paradise, war is omnipresent.
BALI, Indonesia — In a cafe more than 10,000 kilometers from the front lines, Kyiv-style cake stands near kartoshkas, a Russian dessert consisting of cookies, condensed milk and butter.
The chef is Russian, but borscht on the menu, first described as a "soup", is now identified as being of Ukrainian origin.
Nearby, visitors can also enjoy a banya - a sauna and steam room that is the mainstay of both Russian and Ukrainian life.
Since the start of the war in Ukraine, Parq Ubud - both coworking space, apartment complex and cafe - became a refuge for Russians and Ukrainians on the Indonesian island of Bali.
Between the two camps, friendships were made. But the burden of a war fought so far still weighs on many.
ImageA farmer rice harvest near Parq Ubud. In September, over 14,500 Russians and over 3,000 Ukrainians entered Bali.
ImageCo -workspace at Parq Ubud.
"I thought it would be uncomfortable, because you're ashamed of what's going on," said Polina Ptushkina, a 21-year-old designer for a design startup. cryptocurrency. who arrived in Bali in March after spending a few weeks in Dubai.
"Of course you're ashamed, because you didn't stop him, because you haven't done enough," said Ms Ptouchkina, a Russian who said she demonstrated in the streets of Moscow on the first day of the invasion. "It's still weird, I think, for everyone world, for Ukrainians and for Russians."
She recounted an awkward conversation with a Ukrainian woman who worked in the office next to hers. in Park. The woman came to ask Ms. Ptushkina and her colleagues if they were Ukrainians.
"I'm sorry, we're from Moscow," Ms. Ptushkina replied. .
The woman asked Mrs. Ptushkina why she was sorry. They are now friends.
Several Russian men in the thirties said they were there for snap up conscription. All were against the war but were equally cautious when discussing Russian President Vladimir V. Putin.
ImageInside Parq Ubud. Many Russian men in Bali left the country to avoid the project, but are cautious when discussing the politics of Russian President Vladimir V. Putin. The image depicting Mr. Putin in make-up has been banned in Russia.

World Jan 15, 2023 0 52 Add to Reading List

"I'm sorry, we're from Moscow." In Bali, belligerents learn to live together

Thousands of Russians and Ukrainians fled their homeland for Bali. But even in a tropical paradise, war is omnipresent.

BALI, Indonesia — In a cafe more than 10,000 kilometers from the front lines, Kyiv-style cake stands near kartoshkas, a Russian dessert consisting of cookies, condensed milk and butter.

The chef is Russian, but borscht on the menu, first described as a "soup", is now identified as being of Ukrainian origin.

Nearby, visitors can also enjoy a banya - a sauna and steam room that is the mainstay of both Russian and Ukrainian life.

Since the start of the war in Ukraine, Parq Ubud - both coworking space, apartment complex and cafe - became a refuge for Russians and Ukrainians on the Indonesian island of Bali.

Between the two camps, friendships were made. But the burden of a war fought so far still weighs on many.

ImageA farmer rice harvest near Parq Ubud. In September, over 14,500 Russians and over 3,000 Ukrainians entered Bali.

ImageCo -workspace at Parq Ubud.

"I thought it would be uncomfortable, because you're ashamed of what's going on," said Polina Ptushkina, a 21-year-old designer for a design startup. cryptocurrency. who arrived in Bali in March after spending a few weeks in Dubai.

"Of course you're ashamed, because you didn't stop him, because you haven't done enough," said Ms Ptouchkina, a Russian who said she demonstrated in the streets of Moscow on the first day of the invasion. "It's still weird, I think, for everyone world, for Ukrainians and for Russians."

She recounted an awkward conversation with a Ukrainian woman who worked in the office next to hers. in Park. The woman came to ask Ms. Ptushkina and her colleagues if they were Ukrainians.

"I'm sorry, we're from Moscow," Ms. Ptushkina replied. .

The woman asked Mrs. Ptushkina why she was sorry. They are now friends.

Several Russian men in the thirties said they were there for snap up conscription. All were against the war but were equally cautious when discussing Russian President Vladimir V. Putin.

ImageInside Parq Ubud. Many Russian men in Bali left the country to avoid the project, but are cautious when discussing the politics of Russian President Vladimir V. Putin. The image depicting Mr. Putin in make-up has been banned in Russia.