Meera Sodha's Vegan Recipe for Eggplant Beer Tacos | The new vegan

When I first ate a Baja-style fish taco in San Francisco, I may have screamed. It was as if that ultimate British cooking icon, battered cod, had dumped its old friend of fries and was living a whole new American life with new friends: lime, salsa, taco and cream. I loved it, not especially for the fish, but for the contrast in one bite, which was hot, cold, crunchy, sweet and sweet and sour. Here, instead of fish, I used my beloved aubergine, which when fried takes on the dual personality of being crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside, and pairs perfectly with any other items.

Beer - beaten eggplant tacos

Corn tortillas are harder to find (and a bit more expensive) than wheat tortillas, but they're worth it to be sought after for their delicious flavor. I buy mine in bulk from Mex Grocer and keep them in the freezer in small batches.

Preparation 15 minCooking 1 hourServes 4

For the cream150g vegan crème fraîche1 lime, zested and squeezedSalt

For the cabbage100g red cabbage, very thinly sliced½ red onion, peeled and very thinly sliced finely2 tbsp lime juice (from 1-2 limes)½ tsp fine sea salt

For the tomato salsa300g vine tomatoes blackberries (i.e. 3 or 4), finely chopped20g cilantro, finely chopped, stems and whole1 tbsp chipotle paste2 tbsp red wine vinegar½ tsp sea salt fine1 finely chopped red chilli

For the aubergines230g flour (gluten-free, if you like)1 good tsp salt330ml beer (vegan)2 tsp English mustard2 aubergines (about 510g), cut into 1½cm sticks at the widest partSunflower oil, for fryingAt least 12 x 12cm corn or flour tortillas, for serving

Make them first sides. For the cream, in a small bowl, mix the crème fraîche with a tablespoon of lime juice, the lime zest, a tablespoon of water and a big pinch of salt, and set aside.< /p>

Place the cabbage, red onion, lime juice and salt in a second larger bowl (big enough to put your hand in), massage in the lime and salt into the vegetables and set aside to marinate.

For the salsa, combine the chopped tomatoes, cilantro, chipotle paste, vinegar, salt and chilli in a medium bowl, then marinate.

Now for the tortillas. Line a heavy casserole that you have a lid with a tea towel. Heat the tortillas according to package directions - I fry them in a dry pan, then wrap them in the kitchen towel and put the lid on the pan to keep them warm.

Finally, prepare the aubergines. Put the flour in a bowl, add the salt and whisk to combine. Slowly whisk in the beer and mustard, then add the eggplant pieces and toss to coat.

Pour 2cm of oil into a medium saucepan and place over medium heat Heat. Get a pair of tongs and line a large plate with paper towel. When the oil is hot (180°C on a thermometer, or test a fingernail-sized piece of bread, which should crisp in 30 seconds), lower the breaded eggplant pieces into it, not fry more than four at a time so as not to overload the pan and cool the oil. Fry for one minute to 90 seconds, turning once halfway through cooking, until golden brown, then remove with tongs, gently shake off excess oil and place on the paper-lined baking sheet pan to drain. Repeat with the remaining eggplant pieces.

To assemble the tacos, spread a tortilla with a little cream, top with a piece or two of eggplant first fried, then marinated cabbage and, finally, a little salsa.