MM6 Maison Margiela RTW Fall 2023

Focusing on clothes rather than characters seems to be the mantra of the season. The MM6 team dissected and reassembled key wardrobe pieces so wildly that it was impossible to tell which individual pieces made up the looks.

In Maison Margiela's non-linear thinking, it is easier to splice clothes, twist, turn and join the fabrics rather than layering them on top of each other.

The low-rise denim pants had built-in briefs; boxy blazers came with two lapels suggesting layering; padded vests over leather biker jackets were mixed-media outerwear; the hoodie poking out from under a camel overcoat was actually a detachable scarf, and so were the fluffy aprons floating over gauze knits.

Uneven surfaces were the literal thing, since the denim had a metallic foil finish or was splattered with shiny glue- as coating.

It was all based on thick-soled boots with a vaguely obstructed, thigh-high or covered toe of a metal sheet.

The trick went back to the essence of the Margiela universe: exposing what lies behind and inside garment manufacturing. Having MM6 staff put the finishing touches on every look on the catwalk rather than behind the scenes helped achieve this goal.