A Local Guide to Split, Croatia: A Belly-Walking City

Food

One ​​of my favorite restaurants is Villa Spiza, which is down an alley a few minutes walk from the UNESCO-listed Diocletian's Palace in the old City. It's small and bustling - the locals love it! The menu is handwritten each morning to reflect whatever is in season. Depending on the day, you can find traditional Croatian dishes including pašticada (beef stewed in red wine with gnocchi) or brujet (fish stew) - fish and the grilled shellfish dishes are always delicious.

For fine dining, there's Dvor, a 20-minute walk east of the old town. The chef is one of the best in Croatia. There is an outdoor terrace that overlooks Firule Beach, where you can sometimes spot people in the sea playing picigin (a sport unique to Split that involves a team keeping a small ball out some water).

We also have the wonderful green market of Pazar, selling fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses and olive oils. Some merchants have been around for almost 50 years and they are such characters.

Inspiration
Ethnographic Museum and Cathedral of Split

We have wonderful museums in the city. One of my favorites is the Ethnographic Museum, full of exhibits showing how the people of Split lived in the past, with everything from jewelry to pots. There are stunning views from its rooftop over the Peristil - the central square of the palace complex built for Emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century.

We also have the glorious National Theatre, a beautiful neo-baroque building dating back to the end of the 19th century, one of the oldest theaters in Dalmatia. The ballet, opera and concerts held here are world class.

Neighborhood

I live in Meje, a quiet area of ​​Split, a 20 minute walk to the west of the old town. It is close to the Ivan Meštrović Promenade, named after Croatia's most prolific sculptor, and is one of my favorite walkways. It traces the west coast of Split and provides access to beautiful pebble beaches - such as Obojena Svjetlost and Kašjuni - where the water is crystal clear.

Green areas

A Local Guide to Split, Croatia: A Belly-Walking City
Food

One ​​of my favorite restaurants is Villa Spiza, which is down an alley a few minutes walk from the UNESCO-listed Diocletian's Palace in the old City. It's small and bustling - the locals love it! The menu is handwritten each morning to reflect whatever is in season. Depending on the day, you can find traditional Croatian dishes including pašticada (beef stewed in red wine with gnocchi) or brujet (fish stew) - fish and the grilled shellfish dishes are always delicious.

For fine dining, there's Dvor, a 20-minute walk east of the old town. The chef is one of the best in Croatia. There is an outdoor terrace that overlooks Firule Beach, where you can sometimes spot people in the sea playing picigin (a sport unique to Split that involves a team keeping a small ball out some water).

We also have the wonderful green market of Pazar, selling fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses and olive oils. Some merchants have been around for almost 50 years and they are such characters.

Inspiration
Ethnographic Museum and Cathedral of Split

We have wonderful museums in the city. One of my favorites is the Ethnographic Museum, full of exhibits showing how the people of Split lived in the past, with everything from jewelry to pots. There are stunning views from its rooftop over the Peristil - the central square of the palace complex built for Emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century.

We also have the glorious National Theatre, a beautiful neo-baroque building dating back to the end of the 19th century, one of the oldest theaters in Dalmatia. The ballet, opera and concerts held here are world class.

Neighborhood

I live in Meje, a quiet area of ​​Split, a 20 minute walk to the west of the old town. It is close to the Ivan Meštrović Promenade, named after Croatia's most prolific sculptor, and is one of my favorite walkways. It traces the west coast of Split and provides access to beautiful pebble beaches - such as Obojena Svjetlost and Kašjuni - where the water is crystal clear.

Green areas

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