From facial mist to sunscreen, polyglutamic is the new star acid | Sali Hugues
Just as female beauty consumers are finally getting to grips with hyaluronic acid, here comes polyglutamic acid again confusing everyone. I mention them in the same sentence because at first glance they seem to do the same thing: retain water in the skin and, by definition, keep it better hydrated, plumper and healthier.
Beauty brands are so excited about the encouraging results from consumer and clinical trials of polyglutamic acid (some of which suggest it retains even more water than hyaluronic acid) that they're starting to give it a prominent role in their new products.
But before we sink into a marketer's reverie, it should be noted that although polyglutamic acid be sure, it is not - unlike hyaluronic acid - a substance that is already naturally present in the body. Independent - i.e., non-commercial - trials of its benefits are miniscule in amount compared to those of very established humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
Polyglutamic too, at this point, seems like a one-trick pony, offering hydration but not much else yet (hyaluronic acid is also known to calm and soothe, for example). Which is why, I guess, the Inkey list has opted for the best of both worlds by including high levels of glycerin in their excellent new Polyglutamic Acid Dew Sunscreen SPF30 (£14.99).
This is a timely product that will appeal to many. I take issue with the name (it's less rosy than described and than I'd like, in all honesty) and isn't hydrating enough for me parched, but that's precisely what makes it a terrific all-rounder for the majority of consumers. who often find sun creams too greasy. Great price too.
One of the first brands to harness polyglutamic was Glow Recipe, which uses it with hyaluronic acid in Watermelon Glow Ultra-Fine Mist (£25), my own go-to hot weather facial spritz. This - if you don't mind the scent - does exactly what a face mist should, instantly revive, plump and comfort tired, dehydrated skin in a lasting way. I rarely fly without.
The other standout polyglutamic user is REN, in his absolutely brilliant Perfect Canvas Smooth, Prep & Plump Essence (£43). I applied this juicy, soothing liquid before my serum once or twice a day for months – and really, it made all the difference to my parched skin during a particularly brutal winter on the coast. And since it also contains proven hyaluronic acid and glycerin, I have no reason to stop now.
Photo assistant: Bruce Horak
Just as female beauty consumers are finally getting to grips with hyaluronic acid, here comes polyglutamic acid again confusing everyone. I mention them in the same sentence because at first glance they seem to do the same thing: retain water in the skin and, by definition, keep it better hydrated, plumper and healthier.
Beauty brands are so excited about the encouraging results from consumer and clinical trials of polyglutamic acid (some of which suggest it retains even more water than hyaluronic acid) that they're starting to give it a prominent role in their new products.
But before we sink into a marketer's reverie, it should be noted that although polyglutamic acid be sure, it is not - unlike hyaluronic acid - a substance that is already naturally present in the body. Independent - i.e., non-commercial - trials of its benefits are miniscule in amount compared to those of very established humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
Polyglutamic too, at this point, seems like a one-trick pony, offering hydration but not much else yet (hyaluronic acid is also known to calm and soothe, for example). Which is why, I guess, the Inkey list has opted for the best of both worlds by including high levels of glycerin in their excellent new Polyglutamic Acid Dew Sunscreen SPF30 (£14.99).
This is a timely product that will appeal to many. I take issue with the name (it's less rosy than described and than I'd like, in all honesty) and isn't hydrating enough for me parched, but that's precisely what makes it a terrific all-rounder for the majority of consumers. who often find sun creams too greasy. Great price too.
One of the first brands to harness polyglutamic was Glow Recipe, which uses it with hyaluronic acid in Watermelon Glow Ultra-Fine Mist (£25), my own go-to hot weather facial spritz. This - if you don't mind the scent - does exactly what a face mist should, instantly revive, plump and comfort tired, dehydrated skin in a lasting way. I rarely fly without.
The other standout polyglutamic user is REN, in his absolutely brilliant Perfect Canvas Smooth, Prep & Plump Essence (£43). I applied this juicy, soothing liquid before my serum once or twice a day for months – and really, it made all the difference to my parched skin during a particularly brutal winter on the coast. And since it also contains proven hyaluronic acid and glycerin, I have no reason to stop now.
Photo assistant: Bruce Horak
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