Gucci Men Fall 2023

Alessandro who?

From the first outfit — plain beige pants with a T-shirt — it was clear Gucci stood heading in a new direction and the guessing game was over. Before the parade, observers were wondering what kind of collection the brand would present on Friday, the first range without Alessandro Michele? Would the house start with a clean slate? Would it surprise with a completely new aesthetic, just like it did when the former creative director took the reins eight years ago? No to that last question, but there were only a few signs of his tenure.

Instead, this range based on the archives prepared by the internal team relied on the designers who came before him, from Tom Ford to Frida Giannini. Take inspiration from GG denim trousers with embossed crystals and the Piston Lock detail originally created by Ford or sleek blazers in a pastel palette, horsebit loafers and roomy Jackie bags reminiscent of the days of Giannini's jet set. A taupe ruffled chiffon blouse, checkered woolen skirts split on the front or the fluffy Princetown slippers, as well as the sparkling jacket embroidered with sequined festoons recalled at least Michèle's time.

Press notes admitted there were references to the Gucci archives, from the bag to legendary bamboo with GG crystal in a lacquered interpretation of the brand's coated monogram canvas from the 70s, placed for example on soft round-toed ankle boots.

The notes also pointed out that the design team, described as longtime members of the Gucci house and which did not come out at the end of the show, explored the concept of "improvisation", as "an act of collaboration" and as "a constructive tool for creation" which requires skills and knowledge finely adjusted. Self-expression and individualism - issues dear to Michele - were also cited as the foundations of the "collection focused on archetypes of the classic gentleman's wardrobe". This was exemplified by costumes with removable elements that can be transformed into sleeveless jackets and shorts.

The all-male models walked on beige carpet around a spherical stage to watch a live performance of Ceramic by Marc Ribot Dog, playing for guests including Idris Elba; South Korean singer and actor Kai; Percy Hynes White and Nick Cave, among others.

Oversized coats, jackets and pants contrasting with fitted undergarments. Motorcycle clothing that paid homage to Gucci archive pieces from the early 2000s was somewhat confusing compared to sleek trench coats or sophisticated floor coats.

There is no doubt that the team played the main role of Gucci accessories, with a plethora of coveted bags, often in oversized versions, or the soft, padded ankle boots.

Ahead of the show, WWD asked buyers what they expected from the new Gucci, and most responded hoping for a balance between commercial and fancy pieces — after all, it's a business worth around 10 billion euros — but there was also excitement and surprise, because fashion thrives on novelty.

Commercially those prayers were answered, the collection was mostly grounded and safe — suitable for a period of transition. While Kering Chairman and CEO Francois-Henri Pinault told WWD ahead of the show that Gucci Chairman and CEO Marco Bizzarri would remain at the helm of the brand in the post-show period. Let's hope Alessandro Michele works his magic again and appoints a strong creative director to ensure Gucci succeeds in bringing the excitement that retailers and customers are looking for.