Issey Miyake RTW Fall 2023
Satoshi Kondo and his design team literally started with a black square on a white sheet of paper, that they folded, pleated and otherwise transformed to help evoke Issey Miyake's artful and elegant range for fall. The collection was called "The Square and Beyond".
The exploratory process helped them get new shapes and forms.
"This collection is something that introduces a new sense of 'my'," Kondo said, using the Japanese word that can designate — in the context of fashion — the negative space between a garment and the wearer. "There is a different relationship between clothes and people."
Kondo experimented with knitting, for example. The top of a black and white dress began with a knitted square that was pulled and pushed into an organic, irregular shape looping around one shoulder. Her skirt, also beginning with a square, was woven fabric of recycled polyester, draped in pleats.
The designer also played with the intentional shrinkage of the fabrics. Some garments had checkered patterns, alternating between flat and spongy 3D squares, thanks to the shrinking yarn woven into a grid into the material before processing. A turquoise, black and gray minidress had this effect.
"There are always elements or traces of squares in each piece," Kondo said. "But only if you look very closely."
It was a season of contrasting colors, including red and gray, and vibrant hues like the banana. These helped highlight the fascinating shape-shifting - take the seamless knit bodysuit in purple with angular shapes that spring from the hips and ankles.
Shown at the Théâtre du Châtelet, Issey Miyake's fashion show had as an audio backdrop an live performance on the marimba of “Canto Ostinato” by Simeon ten Holt by the Trio SR9. It's the same music that Kondo listened to when creating the clothes.
Satoshi Kondo and his design team literally started with a black square on a white sheet of paper, that they folded, pleated and otherwise transformed to help evoke Issey Miyake's artful and elegant range for fall. The collection was called "The Square and Beyond".
The exploratory process helped them get new shapes and forms.
"This collection is something that introduces a new sense of 'my'," Kondo said, using the Japanese word that can designate — in the context of fashion — the negative space between a garment and the wearer. "There is a different relationship between clothes and people."
Kondo experimented with knitting, for example. The top of a black and white dress began with a knitted square that was pulled and pushed into an organic, irregular shape looping around one shoulder. Her skirt, also beginning with a square, was woven fabric of recycled polyester, draped in pleats.
The designer also played with the intentional shrinkage of the fabrics. Some garments had checkered patterns, alternating between flat and spongy 3D squares, thanks to the shrinking yarn woven into a grid into the material before processing. A turquoise, black and gray minidress had this effect.
"There are always elements or traces of squares in each piece," Kondo said. "But only if you look very closely."
It was a season of contrasting colors, including red and gray, and vibrant hues like the banana. These helped highlight the fascinating shape-shifting - take the seamless knit bodysuit in purple with angular shapes that spring from the hips and ankles.
Shown at the Théâtre du Châtelet, Issey Miyake's fashion show had as an audio backdrop an live performance on the marimba of “Canto Ostinato” by Simeon ten Holt by the Trio SR9. It's the same music that Kondo listened to when creating the clothes.
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