John Whaite's secret ingredient: brown butter

Beurre noisette is so relaxing to prepare. You put the butter in a saucepan over low heat and wait patiently for it to melt. Once it's melted to a nice golden pool, increase the heat to medium-high; it's going to bubble and spit and spit, it's very noisy. Shake the pan every 30 seconds to a minute, and this will keep the milk solids from caramelizing too quickly. As it quiets to a crackling sound, the last moisture leaves the pan. All of a sudden, it's quiet. Then you know the butter is almost ready. The silence is accompanied by a very fine cappuccino foam on top, and the smell is magnificent: toasted hazelnut, with the slight tangy resonance of butter.

N' don't be afraid to take it dark enough; you don't want it to turn black, you want a rich, deep, golden color. It's a perfect example of how cooking isn't just about sight, taste and smell, it's very much about sound too. You have the wet bubble, the dry crackle, then silence: it's ready.

Beurre noisette is so versatile. It is excellent in salted caramel and sticky pudding. But it is just as valuable in salt. Roasted red peppers with goat cheese, almonds, olives and browned butter poured over them are amazing. It's beautiful on meaty white fish, and even with curry. I know it's not traditional but it's great on tarka dal; just pour some in at the end. It elevates anything you add it to.

John Whaite is a TV presenter and food writer