Kino, Leeds: "Expect spectacular explosions of harissa and tahini" - restaurant review

Kino, 34 New Briggate, Leeds LS1 6NU (0113 223 3700). Mezze and small plates £5-7.50, sharing plates £7.50-22, desserts £6, wines from £21.95 a bottle

I only attended one performance by the great Leeds based company, Opera North. It was a 1987 production of Daphne by Richard Strauss, a work subtitled "a bucolic tragedy in one act" which, curiously, later became my affectionate nickname for all of Surrey. Daphne is about love and the whims of the gods. It ends with our eponymous heroine turning into a tree. In truth, the whole thing made me extremely dizzy, although it turned out to be due to German measles which I was diagnosed with the very next day, that was a year before universal introduction MMR that saves lives. Good memories.

Although I never found my calling in opera, maybe because I never really encountered good opera, I have always admired Opera North. During the 80s, they had the coolest marketing brand changes: lots of moody black and white images, a love affair with blocky sans serif fonts, etc. Even if you never went to a show, you wanted their posters on the wall of your student residence. It was a change from the tennis player scratching her buttocks or the shirtless beefcake cradling a baby. " data-spacefinder-type="model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement" class="dcr-173mewl">'Muhammara is a virtuous blitz of roasted red peppers and sweetened nuts with pomegranate molasses' : falafel.

As a result, I have always associated Opera North with the smoothest innovation and it always seems to be. Attached to the Grand Theatre, their home on New Briggate, is a sleek, modern brasserie with plenty of wiping surfaces, eager waiters and precisely placed spotlights. It's called Kino, a name that refers to Howard's meeting room on the other side, and his old movie life. Instead of installing a permanent operator, they put him on extended residencies. This allows them to see what works and lets little outfits get into the bigger restaurant game. In a tough time for hospitality, it's a smart way to limit risk for everyone involved.

Currently it is occupied by MorMor, a street food company based in Leeds who describes himself as making "modern Levantine-inspired small plates and mezes". It pretty much covers everything. Expect spectacular blasts of harissa and tahini, labneh and dukkah. Expect to be taken care of. Too often there is a thirst for restaurant reviews like this to head to the margins; to be descriptions of the sensual and the sublime, angel's kisses and soft and delicious winds on our greedy heart...

Kino, Leeds: "Expect spectacular explosions of harissa and tahini" - restaurant review

Kino, 34 New Briggate, Leeds LS1 6NU (0113 223 3700). Mezze and small plates £5-7.50, sharing plates £7.50-22, desserts £6, wines from £21.95 a bottle

I only attended one performance by the great Leeds based company, Opera North. It was a 1987 production of Daphne by Richard Strauss, a work subtitled "a bucolic tragedy in one act" which, curiously, later became my affectionate nickname for all of Surrey. Daphne is about love and the whims of the gods. It ends with our eponymous heroine turning into a tree. In truth, the whole thing made me extremely dizzy, although it turned out to be due to German measles which I was diagnosed with the very next day, that was a year before universal introduction MMR that saves lives. Good memories.

Although I never found my calling in opera, maybe because I never really encountered good opera, I have always admired Opera North. During the 80s, they had the coolest marketing brand changes: lots of moody black and white images, a love affair with blocky sans serif fonts, etc. Even if you never went to a show, you wanted their posters on the wall of your student residence. It was a change from the tennis player scratching her buttocks or the shirtless beefcake cradling a baby. " data-spacefinder-type="model.dotcomrendering.pageElements.ImageBlockElement" class="dcr-173mewl">'Muhammara is a virtuous blitz of roasted red peppers and sweetened nuts with pomegranate molasses' : falafel.

As a result, I have always associated Opera North with the smoothest innovation and it always seems to be. Attached to the Grand Theatre, their home on New Briggate, is a sleek, modern brasserie with plenty of wiping surfaces, eager waiters and precisely placed spotlights. It's called Kino, a name that refers to Howard's meeting room on the other side, and his old movie life. Instead of installing a permanent operator, they put him on extended residencies. This allows them to see what works and lets little outfits get into the bigger restaurant game. In a tough time for hospitality, it's a smart way to limit risk for everyone involved.

Currently it is occupied by MorMor, a street food company based in Leeds who describes himself as making "modern Levantine-inspired small plates and mezes". It pretty much covers everything. Expect spectacular blasts of harissa and tahini, labneh and dukkah. Expect to be taken care of. Too often there is a thirst for restaurant reviews like this to head to the margins; to be descriptions of the sensual and the sublime, angel's kisses and soft and delicious winds on our greedy heart...

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