Lidl does a bit of magic | David Williams
Pililitteri Estates Vidal Ice Wine, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada 2020 (£13.99, Lidl) In the battle of two German discounters, Aldi, which recently overtook Morrisons for becoming the UK's fourth largest supermarket group has perhaps cemented its position as the premier on these shores. But Lidl – which overtook the co-op to become the UK's sixth-largest supermarket in March and which market research Kantar said had its best year of sales since 2014 – is growing the fastest. When it comes to wine, the two have put price pressure on their rivals for years, with the cost of living crisis focusing Tesco et al more on wines around five cents. But, as I wrote about Aldi after sampling their range in April, none of the discounters are solely focused on the lowest price of wine. Sure, Lidl's Christmas selection, hitting stores this week, has a few bottles at special prices, like the wonderfully flavored sticky icewine with mango and lychee.
Château de Landiras Graves, Bordeaux, France 2019 (£10.99, Lidl) Making Icewine, a Canadian specialty borrowed from the German and Austrian tradition of making "eiswein" from grapes harvested so late that they have frozen on the vine, is an expensive process, since the yield of frozen shriveled grapes is necessarily much lower than those harvested earlier in the year. In context, then, that £14 for a bottle definitely counts as a bargain. Likewise, another of Lidl's new Christmas stickies: Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2014 (£9.99), a typically tart caramel and marmalade example of golden Hungarian sweet wine made from grapes concentrated in sugar and flavor by the formation of "noble rot" Botrytis. Other £10 Lidl Christmas bottles worth trying while they're in store over the next month or two include two well-made, well-priced examples of classic French styles: the appetizing and fresh Bordeaux with the scent of cassis from Château de Landiras Graves, and the crunchy, crisp ripe red apple of Comte de Senneval Champagne Vintage 2014 (£19.99).
Lidl Chianti Riserva, Tuscany, Italy 2019 (£5.99, Lidl) Despite all the good finds the retailer has at the more expensive end of its range, it's hope to find something worthwhile for significantly less than a ten which brings most wine drinkers to Lidl. Among the retailer's Christmas selection, Monsaraz Reserva's vigorously warming plummines from the south of Portugal, Alentejo 2020 (£7.99) will go well with a savory winter stew, while Gedeon Birtok Zöld Veltlini 2021 (£6.99 ), is a light (11.5% abv) but pleasantly aromatic, apple-green Hungarian dry white from a grape variety better known by its Austrian name Grüner Veltliner. But for me, the most eye-catching bargains are both found in the retailer's year-round range. Chianti Riserva is a savory, subtly smoky, dark fruity red with a dusting of baking spices and a spag-bowl-friendly chew. Thörnicher St Michael Riesling Feinherb, Austria 2021 (£4.99), meanwhile, is a slightly floral, lightly stoned fruity white with a touch of sweetness and balancing lime acidity.
Follow David Williams on Twitter @Daveydaibach
Pililitteri Estates Vidal Ice Wine, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Canada 2020 (£13.99, Lidl) In the battle of two German discounters, Aldi, which recently overtook Morrisons for becoming the UK's fourth largest supermarket group has perhaps cemented its position as the premier on these shores. But Lidl – which overtook the co-op to become the UK's sixth-largest supermarket in March and which market research Kantar said had its best year of sales since 2014 – is growing the fastest. When it comes to wine, the two have put price pressure on their rivals for years, with the cost of living crisis focusing Tesco et al more on wines around five cents. But, as I wrote about Aldi after sampling their range in April, none of the discounters are solely focused on the lowest price of wine. Sure, Lidl's Christmas selection, hitting stores this week, has a few bottles at special prices, like the wonderfully flavored sticky icewine with mango and lychee.
Château de Landiras Graves, Bordeaux, France 2019 (£10.99, Lidl) Making Icewine, a Canadian specialty borrowed from the German and Austrian tradition of making "eiswein" from grapes harvested so late that they have frozen on the vine, is an expensive process, since the yield of frozen shriveled grapes is necessarily much lower than those harvested earlier in the year. In context, then, that £14 for a bottle definitely counts as a bargain. Likewise, another of Lidl's new Christmas stickies: Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2014 (£9.99), a typically tart caramel and marmalade example of golden Hungarian sweet wine made from grapes concentrated in sugar and flavor by the formation of "noble rot" Botrytis. Other £10 Lidl Christmas bottles worth trying while they're in store over the next month or two include two well-made, well-priced examples of classic French styles: the appetizing and fresh Bordeaux with the scent of cassis from Château de Landiras Graves, and the crunchy, crisp ripe red apple of Comte de Senneval Champagne Vintage 2014 (£19.99).
Lidl Chianti Riserva, Tuscany, Italy 2019 (£5.99, Lidl) Despite all the good finds the retailer has at the more expensive end of its range, it's hope to find something worthwhile for significantly less than a ten which brings most wine drinkers to Lidl. Among the retailer's Christmas selection, Monsaraz Reserva's vigorously warming plummines from the south of Portugal, Alentejo 2020 (£7.99) will go well with a savory winter stew, while Gedeon Birtok Zöld Veltlini 2021 (£6.99 ), is a light (11.5% abv) but pleasantly aromatic, apple-green Hungarian dry white from a grape variety better known by its Austrian name Grüner Veltliner. But for me, the most eye-catching bargains are both found in the retailer's year-round range. Chianti Riserva is a savory, subtly smoky, dark fruity red with a dusting of baking spices and a spag-bowl-friendly chew. Thörnicher St Michael Riesling Feinherb, Austria 2021 (£4.99), meanwhile, is a slightly floral, lightly stoned fruity white with a touch of sweetness and balancing lime acidity.
Follow David Williams on Twitter @Daveydaibach
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