Prabal Gurung RTW Spring 2023

"Spring 2023 is a celebration of people often unseen but watched, watched, scrutinized", Prabal Gurung said backstage on her spring collection show. “In this difficult time – a slightly dystopian time, I think – hope and optimism were not enough, vigilance, alertness is more. Where I found this refuge was when I went with my nephew to Brooklyn for a rave...I had a feeling in my stomach - if I ever doubt the world, hope is in the youth . It's a celebration of colors. »

The designer was inspired by the exuberant and inclusive crowd of revelers, "in full swing to celebrate ", and boldly tapped into rave culture to celebrate 'the misfits' or, rather, individually through a cast of 'characters' dressed in tulle, sequins, revealing sheer layers, feathers, bright bold colors and hallucinogenic flowers. The designer played in juxtapositions, noting the couture-like draped 3D flower over an acid-wash denim skirt and the undone sensibility of her range, displayed through draped off-the-shoulder blouses, low-rise suits and sheers with boudoir accents, and her layered tulle dresses. These were looks made to turn heads - but the overall range felt more like eccentric costumes due to latex gloves, stockings and neon strappy sandals.

While the collection lacked its signature, its streamlined approach to powerful dressing, the message of Gurung was unwavering. "What's the point of having a position that I have - however little - if I can't show the world that there are different versions of beauty through clothes and people?" asked the creator.