Nicole Miller Resort 2023

"We tried something a little different this season," said Nicole Miller at the start of her appointment with the Resort collection. Instead of a seasonal narrative, the designer took her enduring efforts (having noted over the years that she's very anti-plastic) a big step forward.

With the exception of two silk prints (which make up three pieces of the line), the entire collection was made from original unsold items and old productions. Throughout the station, the designer embraced a strategic DIY sensibility while merging with her tough girl DNA.

The Look: Crazy Camo.

Quote to note: "My idea was to create the whole collection from existing objects. The whole collection is old stuff - I even found some ties from our inventory. It there are also military jackets, bead samples and unsold fabrics."

Key pieces: multi-camouflage patchwork dresses and corset top (which went great with distressed leather pants); redone military jackets with embellished collars; unsold suede (or leather) patchwork jackets, dresses and skirts; a midi dress made entirely of old ties; glued folders; a transparent dress embroidered with camouflage.

The takeaway: Miller's intentional approach to reorienting manufacturing has worked well in his signature "bada–" momentum. The designer also noted that specialty pieces in the collection will be made to order and in limited editions.