Nigel Slater's recipes for lentil, tomato and coconut soup, and for clementine and lemon pies

Honestly, I don't remember when it started, the habit of New Year's soup. I only know that in this kitchen the year begins with a deep pot on the fire , the scent of sweet onions and thyme, chicken broth and spices or simmered beans with garlic and bay leaf.

There are often lentils to this first lunch of the year, in a thick soup with smoked pancetta or in a stew for lightly sauced ribbons of pappardelle. According to legend, lentils eaten on New Year's Day will bring good fortune for the next 12 months, and I would happily include them in a deep bowl of broth.

Lunch of soup seems appropriate for the first day of January, like baking bread. Both are at the heart and soul of this kitchen. This year's soup is something of a hybrid, inspired by nothing but what's in my kitchen cupboard and in the fridge door. Tiny brown legumes, a handful of tomatoes that had frankly passed their best, a can of coconut milk and several spoonfuls of Lao Gan Ma, the addictively crispy hot peppers in oil.

The first day of the new year comes with frugal food, but also with a treat. This time, a batch of citrus tarts, the filling of a lemon custard, finished with slices of clementine. Happy New Year!

Lentil Tomato Coconut Soup

This January New Year's soup brings warmth and sweetness, with coconut milk and a crispy chili seasoning. The brick red chili oil sits in radiant, coin-like bubbles on the surface, so you get a hint of spice, then a dollop of coconut milk to chill. This soup will stay in the fridge overnight if you want to eat it at the stroke of midnight. For 4 people

broth (or water if needed) 1.5 liters of small green or brown lentils 250 onions 2, medium olive oil 3 tbsp garlic 3 cloves 250 g tomato puree 1 tbsp coconut milk 100ml Lao Gan Ma to taste (2 or 3 tsp) coriander leaves, to serve

Bring the broth to a boil in a medium saucepan and add the lentils. As soon as the broth comes back to a boil, lower the heat slightly and cook the lentils for 20 minutes or until just tender. They should still have some crunch.

Peel and coarsely chop the onions. Heat the oil in a large frying pan, add the onions and cook for a good 20 minutes over moderate heat, until tender. Peel the garlic, chop finely and add the onions.

Roughly chop the tomatoes and stir them into the onions with the tomato purée. Simmer the tomatoes, partially covered, until soft and mushy. Stir in the lentils and broth from the skillet and season with salt. Continue cooking for 10 minutes, then stir in the coconut milk and the crispy chilli. As soon as the soup is hot, serve in deep plates.

Tarts with clementines and lemon