Nigel Slater's Recipes for Pumpkin Rolls with Pomegranate Molasses and Baked Apples with Maple Syrup

A pumpkin, its heart hollowed out for soup, a ragged smile etched into its shell, will hold a light on the garden steps, but that's it. Next week, rather than sending explosive flares into the sky, I'll watch the neighbors light up the darkness with their cascades of pink, green, and silver. Celebrations in this house will take place around the kitchen table. And where better?

There will be hot "sausage" rolls filled not with pork but with spiced pumpkin and a dish of baked apples with a maple syrup sauce. 'maple. I'll pass around a basket of chocolate chip cookies and glasses of mulled cinnamon red wine. We'll no doubt coo over rockets and roman candles, but everything I look forward to from Halloween and Guy Fawkes comes on a plate.

I don't know why the food at these fall parties tastes so good. Maybe it's the first real chill, the nostalgic smell of cold, damp earth and sparklers, or maybe it's because of the opportunity to bring out the simple food we love. really – the buttery baked potatoes and links of thick sausage, the deep bowls of golden soup and homemade ginger or chocolate cookies, which seem so much more appropriate than the interference of a creative cook. We'll toast to those golden fall days and sparkling nights, brandishing our steaming glasses and hot pastries, our gifts from the kitchen to the spirits of the bonfire.

Pumpkin or butternut rolls with pomegranate molasses

The important detail here is to use a firm-fleshed pumpkin or squash, so that it holds its shape inside the batter. Crown Prince - the blue apple pumpkin - is good, but a walnut will work too. Just be sure to let it cool and firm up before using. Serves 12

For the pumpkin: butternut squash or pumpkin 1 kg, peeled weight Aleppo pepper ½ tsp spring onions 3 puff pastry 325 gegg 1, 2 tsp beaten nigella seeds

For the dip: pomegranate molasses 4 tsp garlic 1 cloveolive oil 5 tbsp lemon juice ½ mustard grain 2 tsp

< p class="dcr-18sg7f2">You will also need a large baking sheet

Put a large pot of water on to boil and place a steamer basket or colander on it, covered with a lid. Cut the squash or pumpkin into 5cm pieces and steam them for about 25-30 minutes until tender at the tip of a knife.

Transfer the cooked squash, still in its steamer, to drain over a mixing bowl. (Even if the squash hasn't touched water, it may still hold some moisture.) Then put the squash in a bowl and using a potato masher or a fork, mash it into a thick puree. Season with salt, black pepper and Aleppo pepper. Finely chop and add the spring onions. Let cool. The mash should be firm and cold before using. If not, drain it further over a bowl in the refrigerator.

Roll out the puff pastry into a rectangle about 35 x 25 cm, then turn it so the longer side is facing you. Cut in half lengthwise (to obtain 2 strips of dough 35 x 12.5 cm). Lay half of the squash in a line along the edge of the dough facing you, about 2cm from the edge. Brush edge of dough with beaten egg, then roll tightly into a long sausage, sealing edges of dough with more egg. Repeat the process using the second piece of dough and the remaining squash. Place in the refrigerator for 40 minutes. (Don't be tempted to skip this step.)

Set the oven to 200C/thermostat 6 and place a baking sheet in the oven.

Remove the rolls of dough from the refrigerator and cut each into 6 small lengths. Using a palette knife, transfer the rolls to the heated baking sheet. Brush lightly with more beaten egg, then cut a small slit in the top of each and sprinkle with nigella seeds. Bake in preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes, until pastry is golden and puffed. Remove and let stand a few minutes before transferring to a plate or serving board.

Prepare the dip: Place the pomegranate molasses in a small saucepan with the garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and mustard, bring to a boil, then pour into a small dish. Dip each roll in sauce as you eat.

Baked apples with maple syrup and cream