Rating Dublin: “A bright-eyed enthusiasm” – restaurant review

Note Dublin, 26 Fenian Street, Dublin D02 FX09. Snacks and small plates €4-13, large plates €17-32, desserts €7-9, wines from €30

One ​​of the things I like to go eating out is an opportunity to choose things: not just where or when you're going to visit, but what you're going to eat once you're there. Early in my search to find the place in Dublin that captures what's happening there right now, to ride the wave of butter-crest culinary news, I realized that my expectations had to be managed. Blimey, Dublin's restaurant scene is complicated.

My inquiries to local friends for vital intelligence revealed two things. First, you might be able to choose where you go, but your choices might end there. That's because tasting menus are so trendy right now. It's all long lists of snacks and fancy, tuna crudo, sea buckthorn koshu, and rare-breed pork with grilled leek, black walnut, and komatsuna. And ouch, the prices, says the seasoned Londoner. At Liath, it's €180 per person. At Forest Avenue, it's €98. At Allta it's 95€. There's Variety Jones at €80 and Mae at just €68. Bastible, the last place I saw in Dublin, has also ditched its a la carte option in favor of tasting menus (€75). Obviously, in times of staff shortages, tasting menus are easier to manage for the kitchens. They can also be perfect for dinner parties if you fancy a special occasion full of glitz and waiter rubbing. But what if you don't want 14 balanced, yet surprisingly stiff courses? What if you just wanted, you know, dinner?