Rachel Roddy's Recipe for Breadcrumb Stuffed Mussels | A kitchen in Rome

Eat more mussels. For a while I wrote this on a post-it stuck on the fridge. This was perhaps my most successful fridge note (certainly more effective than the one reminding everyone to close the door tightly), and the one that helped decide endless meals while storing milk.

I remember writing it. This was after having an affair with a second-hand copy of Jenny Baker's Simply Fish, a handy and very well put together cookbook and guide that shines with its simple, clever writing. I especially like the pros and cons sections. "Sharks - don't worry - eat very well and, being cartilaginous, have no irritating bones. Barbel - a good fighter but bony, and needs seasoning. Smelt - a freshly caught smell of cucumber and rushes, and make delicious meals: take them if you see them. Mussels are delicious and cheap: don't be put off by fear of preparing them; it's much less of a chore than new potatoes. »

Rubbed mussels look like a cross between a jewel and a fast car, have orange flesh and - always welcome, and especially at this time of year. year - bring their own liquor. In addition, mussels, whether wild or farmed, are undemanding, do not require feed, antibiotics or agrochemicals, and their impact is positive. They are "small pumping stations", filtering bivalves capable of recycling 10 gallons of water per day, thus cleaning the water in which they live, whether in the open sea or in breeding beds. Great for the environment, maybe problematic when it comes to eating, so a good reason to listen to someone who knows the cleanest places to collect them. Or buy farmed mussels, which are grown under strictly controlled conditions, and are generally sweeter and more reliably fattened than wild mussels, although wild mussels produce better liquor.

Although mussels are best eaten, the day you buy them they can be kept overnight in a bowl of cold water - just give them a tablespoon of flour or oatmeal (which endlessly appeals to children). To clean mussels, wash them first in a few changes of water, then pluck out the hairy barbs and use a scourer or stubby knife to scrape off any barnacles or calcium. Discard any with cracked or open shells. If you're not ready to cook yet, put them in a bowl of clean, cold water, and this time give them a teaspoon of salt.

Cozze< em>gratin – stuffed mussels

Preparation 20 minCooking 10 minFor everyone

1kg mussels, washed and removed100ml of white wine120g of soft white breadcrumbs1 clove of garlic, peeled and very finely chopped2 tablespoons of finely chopped parsley1 heaped teaspoon of dried oregano2 tablespoons of grated parmesan cheeseZest of 1 lemon untreated3 tablespoons olive oil, plus a little more for toppingSalt

Put the mussels in a large saucepan that you have a lid on, add the wine, put it over medium heat, cover and cook, shaking the pan gently, for about three minutes or so, until the mussels open. Remove them as soon as they do, so they don't get rubbery, and save the cooking juices; discard any that do not open.

Detach the top hinged shell from the mussels, leaving the flesh in the bottom half (if any mussels are particularly small, remove them and pair with another small in its half-shell boat).

Combine the breadcrumbs, garlic, herbs, parmesan cheese, lemon, olive oil and two tablespoons of mussel liqueur, then divide the whole between the half-shells, pressing gently on them. Arrange the mussels on a baking sheet, zigzag with more olive oil, then finish under the broiler for two to three minutes, or until the crumbs are lightly browned and crispy. Serve immediately, still hot.