Rachel Roddy's pissadelle recipe | A kitchen in Rome

In the middle of the pandemic months, when you could go out, but not far away, I kept running into the same people in well-spaced queues, and saying the same things. "We're fine, but climbing the walls", "Zoom", "sorry", "hidden", "dog". I also found myself talking about parties.

At first it was a queue chat to get people. But, as the months passed, I found myself having more and more detailed discussions and thoughts about the holidays. Memorable, invented and nostalgic house parties; kitchens full of people and baths full of ice, vertical conversations on the stairs, red wine on the carpets, sofas pushed back to make way for dancing (thoughts all the more idealized because, if a party is invented, there is no no chance of not being invited).

In September 2020, I spent an evening with a friend throwing a party that we couldn't organize. How we made jugs of chilled negroni and served Messina beer and five-litre cases of wine. For food, we imagined big bowls of a gnarly cheese snack called Fonzies, milk rolls filled with salami, olives the size of small plums, fried cheese and platters of pizza, which, for the purposes of this column, would be pissadelle with anchovy diamonds.

Also known as sardenaira, piscalandrea or pizza alla Ligure, the pissadelle is part of 'a family of flatbreads topped with anchovies, onions, tomatoes and olives typical of Liguria (and Nice in France, which has a tomato-free version called pissaladière, and a reminder of shifting borders and the shared kitchen). Some variations are unleavened, while others include yeast, although so far I've had more success with yeast-based recipes. I also prefer those who suggest adding the anchovies after cooking, rather than putting them with the tomato sauce - I miss the strength of a fillet.

C' was the Roman cook and teacher Carla Tomasi who taught me how to knead dough with oiled hands on a lightly oiled surface. Years later, I still say, "Hi, Carla," every time. Not only does this help manage stickiness, but it also means you don't incorporate more flour, which happens when kneading on a floured surface. Even though many people say this is an unnecessary step with modern yeasts, I always activate (which sounds like a 1990s aerobics workout): i.e. 25g of fresh yeast or 10g of dry yeast mixed in a cup with 75ml of warm milk and 20g of flour and left for 10 minutes, so it starts bubbling. But feel free to leave this step aside.

Although you can prepare the pissadelle in advance and serve it at room temperature, it is best served hot out of the oven. Spreading the anchovy fillets out on a plate and halving them in preparation for the trellis will seem a bit tricky, but believe me, trying to get them out of the jar is tricky after a negroni, and you might just be distracted by the doorbell or someone moving the sofa.

Pissadella – tart with tomatoes, anchovies, onions and olives

Preparation 30 mins Proving 1 hr 30 mins Cooking 60 mins Several servings

20g fresh yeast or 10g dry yeast75ml warmed milk500g flour10tbsp olive oilSalt2 onions, peeled and cut into half moons1 clove garlic, no peeled and mashed, but left whole800g ripe tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped (or 2 x 400g cans drained)Dried oregano12 anchovy filletsBlack olives

Mix the yeast, warm milk and a spoonful of flour in a cup and leave for 10 minutes for the yeast to activate and start bubbling.

< p class="dcr-3jlghf">In a large bowl, combine the yeast mixture with the remaining flour, four tablespoons of olive oil, a good pinch of salt and enough lukewarm water to make a soft and slightly sticky dough. Rub a work surface with oil and place the dough on it, then use oiled hands to gently fold and knead - it should be soft and a bit difficult to handle, but the oil will help. Wash, dry and rub the bowl with oil, then return the dough to it for an hour to rise.

Meanwhile heat the rest of oil in a skillet, then gently sauté the onion and garlic until the onion is tender and translucent. Add the tomatoes and cook until they are tender and their water has evaporated.

Oil a large baking sheet, place the dough on it, use the oiled fingers to spread it out and set it in place – it should be about 1cm thick all the way around – then leave to rise for another 30 minutes. Spread the tomatoes on top and bake at 200C (180C fan)...