Review: Noir by Paco Rabanne and Kei Ninomiya
Julien Dossena reflects the "frontiers of reality" by Paco Rabanne, while Noir by Kei Ninomiya attempts another dimension.
PARIS — Elon Musk and Jeff Bezos aren't the only people thinking about extraterrestrial exploration.
The promise of alternate dimensions has long captured much of the imagination of the fashion - nor that of designer Paco Rabanne, who died last month at the age of 88. Julien Dossena carried on that legacy in the house Mr. Rabanne built, and he left a note on every seat in his show thanking the original designer for his dream of a "creative utopia, wh ich pushed the boundaries of reality."
Then he took the idea and continued it: in big fuzzy knit tops and pants that transformed the wearer into some kind of cozy creature ; in long dresses covered in a net of transparent plastic sequins that reflected light and created their own syncopation as the models walked (this gave new meaning to the idea of a personal portable sound system, although it cannot be disabled, which can be a problem); and in liquid silver and gold chainmail dresses spliced with leather — plus a few archive looks, as a tribute. The result looked like the armor of a medieval Valkyrie from a distant solar system: a little campy, a little cool. Also, the exit of the costume department at Marvel, if Marvel moved Avenue Montaigne.
If Mr. Dossena took us to a Valhalla of superheroes in the court of King Arthur , at Noir, Kei Ninomiya made us fly far beyond the moon, in – well, who knows? A place where women transformed into magical dandelions, spiky iridescent fronds that vibrated around a raging core of color; or where whole gardens bloomed on the body; where a moon rock became the perfect hat and a skirt was made from an aluminum vortex.
He called it "an exploration of a new dimension", in one of these aphorisms which, in theory, explain the genesis of a collection and are now regularly published by desi...
Julien Dossena reflects the "frontiers of reality" by Paco Rabanne, while Noir by Kei Ninomiya attempts another dimension.
PARIS — Elon Musk and Jeff Bezos aren't the only people thinking about extraterrestrial exploration.
The promise of alternate dimensions has long captured much of the imagination of the fashion - nor that of designer Paco Rabanne, who died last month at the age of 88. Julien Dossena carried on that legacy in the house Mr. Rabanne built, and he left a note on every seat in his show thanking the original designer for his dream of a "creative utopia, wh ich pushed the boundaries of reality."
Then he took the idea and continued it: in big fuzzy knit tops and pants that transformed the wearer into some kind of cozy creature ; in long dresses covered in a net of transparent plastic sequins that reflected light and created their own syncopation as the models walked (this gave new meaning to the idea of a personal portable sound system, although it cannot be disabled, which can be a problem); and in liquid silver and gold chainmail dresses spliced with leather — plus a few archive looks, as a tribute. The result looked like the armor of a medieval Valkyrie from a distant solar system: a little campy, a little cool. Also, the exit of the costume department at Marvel, if Marvel moved Avenue Montaigne.
If Mr. Dossena took us to a Valhalla of superheroes in the court of King Arthur , at Noir, Kei Ninomiya made us fly far beyond the moon, in – well, who knows? A place where women transformed into magical dandelions, spiky iridescent fronds that vibrated around a raging core of color; or where whole gardens bloomed on the body; where a moon rock became the perfect hat and a skirt was made from an aluminum vortex.
He called it "an exploration of a new dimension", in one of these aphorisms which, in theory, explain the genesis of a collection and are now regularly published by desi...
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