Shoulder pads and spikes are back as Paris begs time to dress comfortably

John Lewis is as much about British common sense as it is about a real shop; Everybody knows that. Saint Laurent, meanwhile, is the high church of Parisian chic, as well as a luxury boutique. When a trend unites the two, it's not just a fashion trend. That, darlingss, is a change of mood.

A month after John Lewis scandalized the nation by canceling the floral midi, recalling that there is not a woman in this country who needs another and kindly offering neutral tailors instead, Paris fashion week supported the motion. There were no pastoral puff sleeves or flowery milkmaid dresses to be seen on the Paris catwalks this week. Instead, there were shoulder-pad blazers over silk blouses and fishnet tights with stiletto heels. Clean silhouettes, not floaty layers. Change is in the air. Three years after the pandemic turned us into dressers of comfort, is it time to stop dressing up for imaginary picnics and getting sharper? Are you ready to ditch the easy care coats and get back on good terms with your dry cleaner?

Fashion week is as much about things to feel at your fingertips as it is about clothes. Millions of floating particles form clouds taking shape; that's how the zeitgeist works. At Saint Laurent, designer Anthony Vaccarello revived the spirit of the late Yves with a show set recreating the Hotel Intercontinental, where Yves Saint Laurent presented its haute couture collections in the 1990s. now 79, was in the audience. There was soft jazz on the piano and perfect tuxedo jackets on the floor. r camisoles that were little scoop-neck silk nothings, worn with high-waisted pants and the simplest black pumps. And as ridiculous as it sounds, I got chills. I felt… fear. That didn't happen in the days when nap dresses and loungewear were all the rage.

Polishness and sophistication are suddenly everywhere. At Balmain, where last season's show had a boisterous performance by Cher and a burger stand, this season was a sweet, intimate number with Frank Sinatra on the soundtrack, pearls and polka dots on the catwalk. Schiaparelli – who just two months ago starred Kylie Jenner in a lion's head...