The 12 rules of Christmas cooking

As a writer and food stylist, I've spent nearly 20 years cooking Christmas dinners for ad campaigns, TV shows, and cookbooks. Filming can start up to six months in advance, resulting in multiple parties before most people have even thought of dusting off their decorations. Add two meals of large family and friends, and I've cooked more Christmas dinners than the average person ever will. That's what I learned...

1 Cockerel, for a change

Bigger than a chicken, tastier and less intimidating than a turkey, the cockerel is my choice for the big day. Simon Taylor, GB Butchery team captain and owner of Surrey Hills Butchers, says that although turkey has a slightly better meat-to-bone ratio, a large rooster is a great option for 10 people. "At this size they've had a good long shelf life so are full of a lot more flavor," he says. "Financially, it's going to save a lot of money, especially this year because prices have gone up, especially on the big bronze free-range turkeys."

To cook a 4 - 5 kg cock: take it out of the fridge 30 minutes before. Rub generously with olive oil and butter, season well. Fill the cavity with herbs, garlic cloves and a halved lemon. Roast it at 200°C fan/thermostat 7 for 30 minutes, breast side down in the tray. Then reduce to 140°C fan/gas mark 3 for 1 hour. Carefully turn the poultry over and continue cooking for 2 to 2.5 hours, basting occasionally, until cooked through. Rest for 20-30 minutes before carving.

I'm a fan of the traditional ham, which Taylor also recommends as good value, even with costs on the rise: "Pork is always pound for pound will be the most economical option. Taylor's biggest tip for saving money this Christmas is to check with your local butcher. "If you're on a budget, we can guide you to what's best for you, in terms of quality and flavor. And get your orders in ASAP, especially if it's something off-road."

2 You don't always need a starter

Do you really need a starter? If, like me, you love everything that comes with an epic Christmas dinner, then yes, offering an entrée is an excuse to get a little creative. Want to show off with a cheese soufflé? Dark! Or maybe it's the perfect time to dust off that blinis pan you got last Christmas and wow your guests with homemade blinis, sour cream and smoked salmon. But ask yourself, do you really need to do this or are you going to climax too soon, shattered by ambition and extra dishes?

3 Two side dishes are wonderful. three is a waste of time