Adult Vanilla Scents Without Dessert Smell | Sali Hugues

I recently heard from a retailer that vanilla scents currently outsell florals, and it occurred to me that I have rarely written about the first ones. I love and wear a lot of perfumes containing vanilla (Coco by Chanel and Black Tie by Céline, for two), but when vanilla is all the point, I'm put off by the smell. sickening sponge-dough.

And so I challenged myself to find a more sophisticated selection of vanilla flavors - grown-up and not cloying as the season approached. spring, non-sticky and no cupcake smell.

Let's start with a real bargain that I had never tried before. Lalique Le Parfum (£31.53), a creation by master perfumer Dominique Ropion, is an exceptionally clever vanilla, in that it bypasses the dessert trolley by adding refreshing herbs and a savory bay leaf. It's still sweet, but more alcoholic than pastry, and the whole thing comes together as a very pleasant, powdery concoction, much like spiced almonds dusted with icing sugar. Lovely.

If sweetness still puts you off, try Diptyque's Eau Duelle (£85). What a beauty. Delicate, smooth, almost melancholic bourbon vanilla, creamy wood sap and spices on a light and airy background. It's reminiscent of pulling on a cozy cashmere sweater in strong winds and landing at the perfect temperature. There's nothing sausage here and therefore I think I could very well wear it on a hot day, should anyone ever make an appearance.

The G-word in Laura Mercier's Vanillé Eau Gourmande (£55), made me brace myself for a sugar rush, and while it's undeniably sweet, its spiritual home is a Parisian patisserie, rather than a Krispy Kreme donut outlet. Powdery and sheer with an appealing touch of Play-Doh, it feels like it's floating through a cloud of vanilla sugar. It has a lightness (perhaps too light if you like a punchy, long-lasting scent) that lends itself to layering - something a little heavier, perhaps floral, would go great over the top for evening. /p>

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Able to hold up any time of day, Jo Malone's new Cologne Intense Vetiver & Golden Vanilla (£106). I was intrigued by the idea of ​​mixing green, earthy vetiver with sweet vanilla, and imagined I'd want to wear it. But in the end, I greatly preferred it to my husband. For those who like masculine perfumes, it's a delight. Vanilla is both smoky and creamy - like marshmallows roasted over a bonfire - made adult with cardamom, whiskey and grapefruit. Completely delicious with zero chance of a toothache.