Back to business for men's salons in Paris

PARIS It wasn't just the city that was packed during the recent menswear week here; Show organizers breathed a sigh of relief last weekend as buyers returned to events such as Trano and Man after two years of reduced editions. Buyers are not only there, but they are writing orders, some of them for first collections, which is rare, summed up Trano CEO Boris Provost. We've seen the return of US, Japanese and South Korean buyers, which is great. On the strength of positive feedback on its evolution towards a more creative positioning, Trano, which took place from June 24 to 26, is reaping the fruits of its merger with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, signed last year, thanks to the synergies with the showroom of the Sphere federations for young designers and its very busy location at the Palais de Tokyo. Related Galleries The show, which showcased the work of 42 designers primarily in menswear and accessories, stepped up its schedule of events, hosting shows for three labels, LYPH, DenzilPatrick and David Tlale, in the venue's courtyard. It attracted buyers and the press who wouldn't traditionally attend a trade show, Provost said. DenzelPatrick's presentation at Tranoi. ALEXANDRE GALLOSi/With the kind permission of Tranoi People have been coming back for our third collection, confirms Daniel Gayle, founder of DenzilPatrick, which is in talks with several department stores. Exhibiting for the second time, he has developed a colorful collection exploring identity with many quirky references to school life and adolescent angst. This is our first Tranoi, and it has outperformed the multi-brand showrooms, said Frederick Edmonson, founder of LYPH. Big buyers take their time shopping around and we get written orders. Chez Man, which returned to its Pavillon Vendme with around 60 labels for three days until June 26, for the first time since the start of the pandemic, traffic was intense and the director of Man / Woman, Antoine Floch , said exhibitors and buyers have responded well to the reduced concept in one place. I recently asked historic exhibitors what they didn't like about the last pre-pandemic editions of the show, and unanimously they said it had gotten too big, he said. Around 70 to 80 marks is the sweet spot. The show featured a mix of established labels like Wood Wood, Gitman Vintage and Veja Paris alongside newcomers. They all achieved their goals by the end of day one, Floch said. People were really happy to meet. Shoppers were looking for statement styles, observers said. My store went from mid-range to high-end during COVID-19, summed up Randy Hoogeweegen, owner of About Lifestyle in Amsterdam. (He's also a co-founder of the Ampre brand, featured below.) People are looking for special pieces, spending a lot more but keeping items longer, he said. From the direction for the men's collections this season, there is a more ornamental touch to all the collections, it is more refined, whereas the last two seasons were very bright. While the men's calendar was a trade show in January, View, which debuted earlier this year, didn't repeat the exercise, there was also a new event in town. Inside DRP KIM WEBER / Courtesy of WSN Organized by the organizer of the First Classes WSN, DRP is a fair aimed at consumers targeting the drop culture, and took place for three days until June 25 at the Grand Palais Ephemre. It has incorporated the Sneakerness shoe forum as well as a selection of streetwear labels, with spaces showcasing new technologies including DRP's own metaverse and Futures Factory, an NFT specialist for the sneaker industry that has raised a million euros in funding last year, as well as a play area, and a space for skate and basketball workshops and competitions that doubles as a concert space in the evening. Organizers expected 10,000 visitors over the three-day program to June 25, but exhibitors said attendance was slower than expected and more valuable in terms of business contacts than sales. It's much quieter than expected, said Anthony Deshoux, founder of the Missive label, which offers customizable and tailored streetwear with Velcro letters and patches. I've made good b-to-b contacts, like a museum wanting to take the line, but I think for the target audience, having to pay to enter an event is a barrier. Sneakerness habitu Frank he refused to give his last name to the owner of the German retailer Kixery, lamented, Normally at Sneakerness I would have people queuing, there is no one here. The highlights of the Paris fairs A look by David Tlale Alan Marty/Courtesy of David Tlale David Talle Posted in: Trano Category: Ready-to-wear South African designer David Tlale may be new to showing in Paris, but his opulent, fluid brand has built a solid reputation at home over the past 19 years. Over the years, I came to Paris as a tourist, and also in search of materials and inspiration. And now, in 2022, I come here as myself, as a designer. It's really, really humiliating, he told WWD after his presentation. Honestly, it's intimidating, because you show up at the pace of fashion, and people look at your signature, and also what you stand for, with a different eye. Yes, I may be celebrated in my country, but coming here is like starting from scratch and rebuilding the brand. The designer also encourages young creatives through an internship program launched in 2012. I think I can proudly say that the David Tlale brand has introduced about seven strong brands that are currently building and hard at work in South Africa. So our brand is not just about fashion, but really leaving a legacy, he said. Price: 4,000 to 28,000 South African Rand retail, or $250 to $1,760 at the current exchange rate A look by Llosa Antoine Guilloteau/courtesy of Llosa Llosa Posted in: Trano Category: Men's clothing After working as a designer and consultant in the activewear space for 20 years, Fred Llosa decided to combine his expertise with his passion for menswear. I try to combine the cleanliness of the seam with the flexibility of sportswear, he explained. With oversized yet structured silhouettes and textured details, he seeks to renew the menswear color palette with dusty, understated pastel tones. After launching the label in 2020 and finding success with a series of Parisian pop-ups, this was his first season opening wholesale. Price: 250 euros on average retail A look from Ampre Courtesy of Ampre Ampere Shown To: Male Category: Men's Clothing Now in its third season, Amsterdam-based Ampre is a high-end menswear brand focused on combining embellished details like lace, embroidery and guipure with sportswear silhouettes. We wanted to make menswear more romantic, explained co-founder Aleks Kuijpers, a textile specialist who teamed up with Randy Hoogeweegen, owner of two luxury menswear shops About Lifestyle in Amsterdam, to combine their respective expertise and offer an elevated contemporary wardrobe. Price: 100 to 795 euros retail A Look at Untitled Artwork Courtesy of Untitled Artwork Untitled works Shown To: Male Category: Streetwear Graphic designer Erasmo Ciufo has worked with some of the biggest streetwear brands, including Off-White and Adidas. After seeing success with unique pieces he had created, he decided to launch his own brand, and his first collection presented in January brought together around thirty stockists, of whom I am humbled by this attention, I have always worked in the background for major brands, he told WWD. With its second wholesale collection, titled Belonging, the range with a lived-in feel and graphic details was designed to explore shared symbolism and young people's desire to personalize their clothing. Shoppers were drawn to key pieces in the line, like oversized knits, he said. Price: 150 to 400 euros retail A look from LYPH Courtesy of LYPH LYPH Posted in: Trano Category: Streetwear Pronounced life and short for Live Young Play Hard, the brand is the brainchild of former Paul Smith designer Frederick Edmonson, based in England's Lake District. Launched in 2015, the brand uses upcycled fabrics and materials and is inspired by popular culture, and is this year's finalist for the British Fashion Council x GQ Designer Fashion Fund. Its designs are based on utilitarian details with a mix-and-match approach, with snap pockets that can be combined with different pieces from the collection or zipped panels that can be interchanged. There was also a capsule of black-and-white pieces featuring QR codes that link to the brand's Therapy Sessions platform, which offers a library of free wellness content. Price: 155 to 680 pounds retail A look from Isnurh Courtesy of Isnurh isnurh Posted in: Trano Category: Contemporary menswear Founded in 2017, sustainable Copenhagen-based brand Isnurh offers a concept that blends Scandinavian minimalism with artisanal influences. With a collection made up of 60% deadstock fabrics, a terrycloth shirt and joggers with a pastel print to placement details on a trench coat, for example, the brand is growing rapidly thanks to celebrity recommendations and includes Illum and Magasin du Nord department stores. among its dealers in Denmark. The range includes Tencel shirts made in partnership with technology company Rodinia, printed using an innovative waterless technique with biodegradable inks. Price: 97 to 540 euros retail A look from De Pino Courtesy of De Pino From Pino Posted in: Trano Category: Ready-to-wear A graduate of La Cambre in Paris, Gabriel Figueiredo, who worked in the embroidery workshop of Maison Margielas, launched his genderless label in 2020, mixing feminine and naive, childish references in his black and off-white silhouettes using large fabrics. partially recycled. With a wardrobe ranging from elaborate evening wear and a cape covered in giant 3D daffodils, to tweed jackets, crochet knits and joggers, everything is designed to be mixed and matched. Price: 140 to 810 euros direct-to-consumer Templates with an A3 design Studio A3 Posted at: DRP Category: Accessories Part of the Revibe space at the DRP showcasing a selection of labels supported by the French upcycling market A3 Studio was created by father Adel Haddidi and his son and daughter. The label buys new but never worn sneakers and transforms them into quirky bags, adding chain hardwear, for example. At the moment, everything is handmade in Paris, but the brand hopes to expand and work with artisans in Haddidis, Kairoun, Tunisia. The brand's latest venture reuses the soles of trainers to create a hybrid with the traditional North African babouche slipper. Pricing: 250 to 360 euros per bag; shoes (made to measure only) 170 to 250 euros.