How to make the most of smoked salmon trimmings – recipe | don't waste

Today's inexpensive and simple mousse can be made with leftover smoked salmon from a side or with trimmings bought from the fishmonger, which are often sold at a knockdown price , making it economical and wasteful -ingredient saving, as well as delicious.

Spelled Cheddar Gougères with Smoked Salmon Trim Mousse

The Secret Smokehouse in Hackney, east London, says the smoked salmon trimmings, which keep best in an airtight container in the fridge, can be made into all sorts of dishes, from mousse, terrine, salad and frittata chowder, quiche, fishcakes, pasta, risotto and scones. Smoked salmon goes particularly well with dill, black pepper, chives, soft cheese or fresh cream, lemon, capers, spring greens, rye and crisp thinly sliced ​​vegetables (radish and cucumber, for example), so keep that in mind when you come to cook a dish to use your own smoked salmon, if you're lucky enough to have it. Here, I've made a simple smoked salmon mousse from trimmings, which can be served on crackers, as a dip for crudités or, more elaborately, in today's cheese gougères. Cheddar is cooked, so it's also a great way to use up old, shredded cheese and/or cheese rinds.

50g salmon trimmings80g cream cheese30g yoghurt1 sprig dill, plus more soft sprigs to serveZest and juice of ¼ lemon (preferably unwaxed and organic) Sea salt and black pepper80g unsalted butter½ tsp sea salt sea75ml whole milk70g flour – I use a mixture of 50g white spelled flour and 20g wholemeal spelled flour, but any gluten free flour will work3 medium eggs40g hard cheese (eg Cheddar matured, gruyère, parmesan), grated, plus extra for garnish

First, prepare the smoked salmon mousse. Put fish trimmings, cream cheese, yogurt, dill sprig (including stem) and lemon juice and zest in a smooth blender and blitz. Lightly season to taste, if needed.

Now for the gougères. Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/Gas 6. Melt the butter in a saucepan with half a teaspoon of sea salt, add the milk and 75ml of water and bring to the boil . Add the flour, lower the heat to low and stir vigorously until the mixture comes together into a paste. Transfer to a large bowl, then stir in the lightly beaten eggs one at a time. Finally, stir in half a teaspoon of freshly cracked black pepper and the grated cheese (old cheese or a crust works well).

Line a large baking sheet with damp (but not wet) parchment paper and line with dough balls the size of a teaspoon, spacing them 2 cm apart. Spread over some more grated cheese, then bake for 25 minutes, until the gougères are puffed, golden and crispy. Lightly prick the bottom of each gougère with a toothpick or skewer – this will prevent them from deflating – then return to the oven for five minutes. Cool slightly, slice, garnish each with salmon mousse and a sprig of dill, and serve.