Dior Couture Fall 2024
Maria Grazia Chiuri wants to make a couture jacket for her boss, Delphine Arnault. It's the only way, she says, to illustrate the difference between a tailored jacket and a ready-made version.
"I want her to feel that, because it's something that really has the imprint of your body," Chiuri, after Dior's new chief executive showed up at fittings for a preview of his fall collection. “All prints are different because all bodies are different. I think that's the beautiful aspect of the sewing tradition.”
Call it the pinnacle of quiet luxury.
Chiuri's designs this season were all about understated elegance, or what founder Christian Dior described as the “apparent simplicity” of designs made to fit like a glove. She shares her penchant for construction rather than embellishment, but with a contemporary concern for comfort, loosening the waists where Dior has cinched them. /p>
In their floor-length robes, in shades of white, silver and burnished gold , her bare-faced beauties had the aura of Vestal Virgins – or Joan of Arc, in the case of shaved-haired model Freja Rothmann, who wore a gray pleated dress with a closed collar.
The designs were inspired by the goddesses of antiquity, echoed in the set designed by l Italian artist Marta Roberti and embroidered by the Chanakya workshop in Mumbai.
With their pleats, capes and robes, these outfits were tailor-made for the patron saints of the stealth of today's wealth: women like Gwyneth Paltrow or the Olsen sisters who embody the “old money” aesthetic. Is there anything more synonymous with privilege than an ivory cashmere coat over a white dress?
There were beautiful evening dresses embroidered with crystal beads or thousands of small beads, but Chiuri also offered daytime options, with blindingly white cotton-poplin shirts or Bar jackets thrown over a long dress or plain skirt. "The idea is that it's very pure, very elegant," she said.
She pointed to a vintage style ivory silk dress with needle embroidery and drawn thread, a technique called "sfilato" in Italian centuries old and in danger of disappearing. "It's not show, this kind of embroidery," noted Chiuri. Yet it is priceless .
"These pieces are unique. You can't find this kind of work anywhere else, honestly," said she said, "It's something you feel on your body, more than what you see with your eyes."
Maria Grazia Chiuri wants to make a couture jacket for her boss, Delphine Arnault. It's the only way, she says, to illustrate the difference between a tailored jacket and a ready-made version.
"I want her to feel that, because it's something that really has the imprint of your body," Chiuri, after Dior's new chief executive showed up at fittings for a preview of his fall collection. “All prints are different because all bodies are different. I think that's the beautiful aspect of the sewing tradition.”
Call it the pinnacle of quiet luxury.
Chiuri's designs this season were all about understated elegance, or what founder Christian Dior described as the “apparent simplicity” of designs made to fit like a glove. She shares her penchant for construction rather than embellishment, but with a contemporary concern for comfort, loosening the waists where Dior has cinched them. /p>
In their floor-length robes, in shades of white, silver and burnished gold , her bare-faced beauties had the aura of Vestal Virgins – or Joan of Arc, in the case of shaved-haired model Freja Rothmann, who wore a gray pleated dress with a closed collar.
The designs were inspired by the goddesses of antiquity, echoed in the set designed by l Italian artist Marta Roberti and embroidered by the Chanakya workshop in Mumbai.
With their pleats, capes and robes, these outfits were tailor-made for the patron saints of the stealth of today's wealth: women like Gwyneth Paltrow or the Olsen sisters who embody the “old money” aesthetic. Is there anything more synonymous with privilege than an ivory cashmere coat over a white dress?
There were beautiful evening dresses embroidered with crystal beads or thousands of small beads, but Chiuri also offered daytime options, with blindingly white cotton-poplin shirts or Bar jackets thrown over a long dress or plain skirt. "The idea is that it's very pure, very elegant," she said.
She pointed to a vintage style ivory silk dress with needle embroidery and drawn thread, a technique called "sfilato" in Italian centuries old and in danger of disappearing. "It's not show, this kind of embroidery," noted Chiuri. Yet it is priceless .
"These pieces are unique. You can't find this kind of work anywhere else, honestly," said she said, "It's something you feel on your body, more than what you see with your eyes."
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