Emilio Pucci RTW Spring 2023

FLORENCE — There was a full moon, the Ponte Vecchio in the background at dusk and the lawns carefully maintained on the banks of the Arno River. Camille Miceli knows how to set the scene.

For his first fashion show for Pucci, Miceli chose Florence, the birthplace of Emilio Pucci , and of course the designer wanted to pay homage to the founder of the brand in more ways than one.

After the experiential events in Capri and St. Moritz, Miceli turned to the moon - infusing looks from the collection with a reference to an intriguing piece of Pucci history that may not be remembered much today.

In 1971, Emilio Pucci designed a red, white and blue Apollo 15 emblem for the astronauts of the assignment. The circular patch was placed on the heart of the uniforms of David Scott, Alfred Worden and James Irwin. It showed three boomerang-shaped objects flying in formation above the moon, representing the three astronauts.

Beneath his watch meant Pucci's designs infused with a 60s Space-Age vibe Printed silk twill has been laminated with gold foil for a crackled iridescence on shimmering dresses, crop tops and hooded jackets. Ripstop has been treated with a frosted and silver effect. Miceli's designs are not for the wallflower type of woman.

Air, said Miceli, was the starting point for the see now, buy now collection, which she unveiled at the Canottieri di Firenze rowing association on Thursday evening.

In fact, the first look was a flowing, lightweight kaftan adorned with Pucci's Pesce motif, seen on a model standing on a simple small boat on the Arno. Slowly the rower approached the track and the show began in earnest. The crowds of tourists on the Ponte Vecchio were treated to an unexpected spectacle.

"Looks like the model might fly away," Miceli explained before the show, pointing out the importance of lightness in silk and muslin dresses floating in the breeze and the softness of spring evenings.

Miceli felt the time was right to host a show to showcase the entire collection. "Last winter, I felt the skiwear stood out more than the whole range," she said.

She had stayed away from the traditional fashion shows, unveiling her first designs for Pucci in April last year a fun weekend of lunches, yoga classes and parties in Capri, the jet set island where the founder opened his first boutique in 1951. This was followed by another event in St. Moritz in December.

However, she pointed out that the show feels right now but she doesn't want to be "stuck in a format", leaving the future open to questions.

Miceli pointed out that while fashion on the catwalk may indeed reflect her personality — her attitude cheerful and playful come to mind - the collection was entirely a tribute to Emilio Pucci - hence her decision to dub the E.P. collection. "His initials are enough," she said, pointing to "Initials B.B." by Serge Gainsbourg. 1968 song about Brigitte Bardot, so famous her name didn't need to be spelled.

"Of course there is a part of me in the collection, but Emilio passes before, I am here to serve the house and shape myself,” she said.

There were a few all-white looks - not a color typically associated with Pucci - on fitted jeans, a short dress, a crop top adorned with flowers and an accent on the artisanal techniques of Pucci. They were preparatory to the brand-identifiable prints, she says, which were dominant, such as the Girandole print on a series of knits.

The signature Marmo print appeared as an all over denim, which was laser treated and washed with reused water. A fringed shawl collar jacket teamed with a miniskirt had a 90s attitude.