New designers shape the future at historic brands in Italy

MILAN - A new group of young designers will unveil their first collections for some of Italy's most famous brands this month, coinciding with significant changes in ownership and management.

Marco De Vincenzo, who joined Etro as its new creative director in June, is set to mark a new phase for the brand which began with the acquisition of a majority stake by L Catterton in July 2021, followed by the arrival of Fabrizio Cardinali's Dolce & Gabbana as general manager last September.

Founder Gerolamo, or Gimmo, Etro's children Veronica, Kean and Jacopo, who previously served as creative directors of womenswear, menswear and homewear respectively, continue to collaborate with the house, but Cardinali said that thanks to De Vincenzo's "sensitivity for colours, prints and fabrics", he was convinced that the designer "will know how to best interpret the extraordinary heritage of Etro" and that he will "give new impetus to the world of accessories". .

The designer, former Vogue Italia "Who Is on Next?" talent search, known for its labor-intensive garments, optical effects, rich fabrics and sophisticated embellishments, has worked on accessories for years as a consultant for Fendi with Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi. His first designs for Etro will be presented on September 23 during Milan Fashion Week.

Etro's show will take place a few hours after Filippo Grazioli's revamped vision for Missoni. This will mark Grazioli's first show since joining the brand as creative director last March. He was already responsible for the resort and men's spring collections unveiled via presentations earlier this summer. Grazioli was approached by CEO Livio Proli, who joined the company in 2020, as part of a reorganization following the Missoni family's sale of a 41.2% stake in the company to Italian fund FSI in 2018.

On September 24, Maximilian Davis will present his first creations as creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo with a mixed show. Born in Manchester and a graduate of the London College of Fashion, Davis founded his label Maximilian in 2020, which he put on the back burner to devote himself entirely to Ferragamo. Davis launched her eponymous label after working as a junior designer at Grace Wales Bonner, and previously worked as a freelance designer for Mowalola, Asai and Supriya Lele.

His arrival, succeeding Paul Andrew, is one of the first tangible signs of CEO Marco Gobbetti's tenure. Gobbetti joined Ferragamo from Burberry last January, and last May said he aimed to double the company's revenue in four to five years and double marketing and communications spending as a percentage of revenues from 2023. This will lead to a cumulative investment of €400 million over the period 2023 to 2026, focused on store renovations, technology and supply chain.

"His clarity of vision along with the level of execution and his powerful aesthetic make him one of the brightest talents of his generation. His work is defined by elegance, refined sensuality and relentless commitment to quality," Gobbetti said of Davis upon his appointment as Creative Director. "Through his lens of contemporary sensibility, he will write an exciting new chapter for this house built on a legacy of creativity, know-how, sophistication and exceptional human values."

Last year, the Florence-based company announced a return to black, posting a profit of 81 million euros against a loss...