Nigel Slater's Recipes for Lamb with Apricots and Asparagus Hollandaise Sauce | Nigel Slater

The foam of cherry blossoms, the big bunches of asparagus and the spring sun are there to lift our spirits, but those first days of spring often end with a certain chill and the need for what I call "a good dinner". A pot of glowing lamb perhaps, left in the oven, the meat slowly rising to tenderness over a few hours in a lightly spiced tomato sauce. That's exactly which I did this week, stirring in a deep, fragrant heat with a dollop of rose harissa I introduced the little dried apricot pie and lemon fizz, partly to give it some spring and partly because I like the pairing of lamb and apricots Everyone wiped their plate with pink-tipped chicory leaves - perky, like bunny ears - and slices of what's probably the last of the year's blood oranges.

The week had already had something of a celebratory ring. I had found a few bunches of early asparagus and brought them home, cradled atop the shopping bag to protect the fragile tips. The occasion was special enough to prepare a bowl of Hollandaise sauce made all the more seasonal with a handful of wild garlic leaves. We piled the asparagus and sauce on thick slices of grilled focaccia to get the somewhat expensive spears going.

It's one of the slower for many years, but just walking around the markets and shops right now, you can feel the mood changing. In addition to the local wild garlic, the first French Gariguette strawberries are here, boxes of loquats to poach with sugar and lemon, and big clusters of purple sprouts, as beautiful as a bouquet of violets. Slowly, but surely, the pleasure begins.

Asparagus and wild garlic Hollandaise

When I started cooking, Hollandaise had a certain terror. A fear that dissipated once I figured out that you'll be fine as long as you add the butter slowly, drop by drop at first, and the sauce doesn't get too hot. If he were to do his worst and curdle on you, the naughty sauce can usually be saved by lowering the bowl into a sink of cold water and giving him a damn good whipping. If that fails, place another egg yolk in a clean bowl over the simmering water and slowly stir in the curd sauce. Wild garlic is available at farmers' markets, greengrocers, and some supermarkets. For 2 people as a light lunch

400g asparagus sourdough bread or 4 slices focaccia

For Hollandaise: egg yolks 3 white wine vinegar 2 tsp melted butter 200 g wild garlic leaves 50 glemon juice a little

To make the hollandaise sauce, put a saucepan of water to boil and find a heat-resistant glass or porcelain bowl that will fit snugly in it without touching the water. Dip the egg yolks and vinegar in it. Stir in the melted butter, very slowly at first, then in an intermittent drizzle, whisking all the time until a thick, creamy sauce forms.

Chop finely slice the garlic leaves and stir into the sauce, along with the lemon. Remove the pan from the heat, but leave the bowl above the water. Whisk occasionally to prevent it from separating.

For the asparagus, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cut the asparagus, removing the dry ends. Dip the asparagus and cook for 5 to 7 minutes depending on the thickness of the asparagus. I like to cook them until just soft enough to bend. Remove from the water using a slotted spoon or kitchen tongs (pouring them into a colander could damage the fragile tips), then let them drain.

Toast the bread slices lightly, then spoon a spoonful of sauce on each. Divide the asparagus between them, then coat with a little sauce and serve the rest on the side.

Lamb with pink harissa and apricots